Laurel is one of my favorite spots for a special meal. The Bankers Hill location is close to downtown and Hillcrest, the decor is sophisticated yet understated, and the crowd is reliably elegant. Throw in a wine list with the city's best selection of French Rhône and extravagant Napa cabernets, and a well-composed menu of southern French country dishes with the occasional Moroccan accent, and it's no wonder this restaurant continues to be at the top of its game; when Jason Shaeffer took over for founding chef Doug Organ in 2001, the transition went without a hiccup. Live piano music adds to the panache of this graceful room, located on the ground floor of an amorphous office building, a block west of the Laurel Street entrance to Balboa Park. Start by choosing from an extensive selection of tantalizing appetizers, including saffron-tinged red pepper-and-shellfish soup, veal sweetbreads with salsify and truffle, and warm caramelized onion-and-Roquefort tart. Main courses include mouthwatering crisp duck confit with Toulouse sausage, or the seafood specials like sautéed monkfish cheek with braised baby fennel and lemony couscous. If you're overwhelmed by the choices, succumb to the five-course tasting menu ($59 with three wine pairings).

One of the most reliable choices outside downtown and La Jolla for fine dining, Laurel has New York-style ambience coupled with San Diego's slightly more temperate prices. The restaurant is also popular with theatergoers, who are offered shuttle service to the Globe Theaters.