If the odd-looking stucco exterior in a less-than-promising section of P.B. looks like a dry cleaner adorned with umbrellas, well, it once was a spot for 1-hour Martinizing. But in just a few short years, this charmer has found a niche in the community--many non-beach residents have never heard of it. Although located well away from the surf, it's lovely inside, and the food can knock your socks off. It's the best spot in the area for shellfish-laden pasta, wood-fired pizzas, and management that welcomes guests like family. Romantic lighting, sheer draperies, and warmly earthy walls create a vaguely North African ambience, assisted by the lilting Milan accents of the staff (when the din of a few dozen happy diners doesn't drown them out, that is). Every item on the menu bears the unmistakable flavor of freshness and homemade care--even the simplest curled-edge ravioli stuffed with ricotta, spinach, and pine nuts is elevated to culinary perfection, while salmon is dealt with unusually firmly, endowed with olives, capers and thick hunks of tomato in wine and garlic. You may leave wishing you could be adopted by this gracious family.