You won't find a sign in front of this neighborhood hideaway--just look for the street-sign marking the intersection of Fifth and Hawthorn, a few blocks north of downtown, and aim for the red neon "open" sign. Inhabited by a slew of regulars, the comfortable room is somewhat dark, vaguely romantic--just enough, anyway, to take your mind off the planes coming in for a landing overhead. The menu has pretty much stayed the same for 16 years: You won't find anything daring, but you will find lots of well-executed basics, like a filet mignon in green peppercorn sauce and linguini with clams, white wine, and garlic. There are a few dishes Fifth & Hawthorn excels at: The mustard-crusted catfish is simple and delicious, and the calamari, sautéed "abalone-style," are rendered tender and sweet. The restaurant also offers a terrific four-course meal: appetizer, soup or salad, one of six entrees, and dessert for $50 per couple, including a bottle of wine to share.