Master restaurant designer Pat Kuleto and chef Nancy Oaks teamed up to create one of San Francisco's most exciting restaurants, and although it made its debut in 1993, it's still one of my -- and the city's -- all-time favorites.

The dramatically artistic Belle Epoque interior, with vaulted brick ceilings, floral banquettes, a mosaic floor, and tulip-shaped lamps, is the setting for Oaks's equally impressive sculptural and mouthwatering dishes. Starters alone could make a perfect meal, especially if you indulge in sweetbreads wrapped in prosciutto on watercress and Lola Rose lettuce, with garlic croutons and whole-grain mustard vinaigrette; Sonoma foie gras with elderberry syrup, toast, and Bosc pear salad; or Maine sea scallops on garlic mashed potato croustade with truffle and portobello mushroom relish. The nine or so main courses are equally creative and might include pan-roasted miso-glazed sea bass with asparagus salad, Japanese rice, and shiitake mushroom broth; or spit-roasted cider-cured pork loin with sweet potato-swirled mashed potatoes and sautéed baby red chard. Vegetarian items, such as wild-mushroom risotto with fresh chanterelles and Parmesan, are also offered. Three levels of formality -- bar, open kitchen, and main dining room -- keep things from getting too snobby. Although steep prices prevent most from making Boulevard a regular gig, you'd be hard-pressed to find a better place for a special, fun-filled occasion. Cocktailers: Do ask the bartender about the special martinis -- they're some of the best in town.