In the old days (we're talking way back), the Cliff House was the place to go for a romantic night on the town. Nowadays, the aging San Francisco landmark caters mostly to tourists who arrive by the busload to gander at the Sutro Baths remains next door.

The two restaurants in the main two-story building are undergoing major renovation as this book goes to press. As with the previous restaurants, there will be a moderate and an expensive choice. The Sutro Restaurant will be somewhat formal (read: pricey). The main room, known as The Bistro, is a more casual spot. Refurbished to recall its glory days near the turn of the 20th century, both restaurants offer superb ocean views, particularly at sunset, when the fog lets up; unfortunately, the food has been a distant second to the scenery, but I'm hopeful! Arrive before dusk, request a window seat, order a few appetizers and cocktails, and enjoy the view. Or follow my family's lead: We make the elaborate Sunday brunch served from 10am to 3pm in the newly renovated Terrace Room a much-anticipated annual event.