Fleur de Lys is a classic French, elegant, affair amidst 700 yards of rich red-patterned fabric, dim French candelabras, an extraordinary sculptural floral centerpiece, and well-dressed diners. Just as romantic as the ambiance is the cuisine of chef Hubert Keller (who was President Clinton's first guest chef at the White House). Unlike lots of celebrity chefs, Keller is usually in the kitchen preparing the menus, which range from à la carte to a five-course tasting menu and four-course vegetarian menu. Fans of bite-size samplings appreciate the "Symphony" appetizer, which may include Hudson Valley foie gras terrine, sea scallop cake, and lobster gelée. Even better are crispy veal sweetbreads atop artichokes and leeks and truffle vinaigrette, or my personal favorite, salmon on a fluffy corn pancake with American sturgeon caviar and watercress sauce. The best main course of late was choucroute-crusted veal loin wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon with whole-grain mustard and Riesling sauce. I was less crazy about the Maine lobster tail, which came cozied in a tartelette and was too sweet, with its Pinot Noir sauce with vanilla oil. Desserts are artistic creations and might feature chocolate tartelette with mandarin oranges and walnuts. The selection of 300 French and California wines is impressive, but the by-the-glass options are woefully weak.