The historic Denver National Bank building, with its circular 23-ton door still in place, is the site of the Broker. Patrons sit in cherrywood booths once used by bank customers to inspect safe-deposit boxes, and historic photos of Denver line the walls. Famous for its generous portions, the Broker's at its best with beef: New York and porterhouse steaks, beef Wellington, and prime rib are all excellent. Rocky Mountain trout, rack of lamb, roast duck, Alaskan king-crab legs, and blackened catfish round out the menu, and vegetarians can select from a small roster of meatless offerings, including an interesting vegetable Wellington. The Broker's trademark is a complimentary large bowl of steamed gulf shrimp with a tasty and tangy sauce.

Two additional locations in Denver are the Airport Broker (near DIA), 12100 E. 39th Ave. (tel. 303/371-6420), at Peoria just south of I-70; and DTC Broker, 5111 DTC Parkway (tel. 303/770-5111), east of I-25 in Greenwood Village. In Boulder, there's the Broker Inn Restaurant, 555 30th St. (tel. 303/449-1752), between the turnpike and Baseline Road.