It used to be that the Blue Door's greatest claim to fame was that Madonna was part owner. The food was unremarkable, but the eye candy was sickly sweet. When the material girl fled, so did others, leaving the Blue Door wide open for anything, as long as it was as fabulous as the hotel in which it sits. The most recent incarnation of the restaurant begs for superlatives more flattering than the standard "fabulous." The eye candy is still here, but now you have good reason to focus your eyes on the food rather than who's eating it. Thanks to award-winning chef Claude Troisgrois (rhymes with foie gras)--a star in his own right--the menu frowns upon the ubiquitous fusion moniker in favor of a more classic French approach to tropical spices and ingredients. Ragout of Maine lobster in coconut-milk broth; sea bass with brown butter, cashews, and roasted hearts of palm; and ravioli stuffed with taro root mousseline are just a few of the Blue Door's tempting offerings. Service can be snippy, slow, and, at times, downright rude, but the food makes up for what the restaurant lacks in hospitality.