Come hankering red meat or don't come at all to this chuck wagon-style eatery. Jacks serves Texas-size (and sometimes Texas tough) hunks of cow grilled on an open pit and served with jalapeño smashed potatoes and corn on the cob. The ribs are generally moist and tender, but at crowded times, when the kitchen gets backed up, they may be dry and chewy. The menu also has chicken, salmon, and pork, but it's not a good idea to experiment in a beef house, even a marginal one. To add to the mood, you'll be treated to mounted buffalo heads, long-stuffed jack-a-lopes, and more dying-calf-in-a-hailstorm, twitch-and-twang country-western music than a city slicker can endure in a lifetime. Wash the meal down with an icy longneck (there is a wine list, but it's very basic).