This Atlanta institution, established in 1927, offers authentic Southern specialties, without any newfangled twists. (Thank goodness.) It has an enormous local clientele of devoted regulars--many of whom look like they might enjoy a birthday greeting from Willard Scott any day--and some of the waitstaff have worked here for decades. The Colonnade is unpretentious and comfortable, with most of the seating at butcher-block tables in a large room. A cozy bar with a working fireplace is a nice place to sit if you have to wait for a table--and you probably will.

At lunch or dinner, you can order fresh turkey and dressing (they roast about a dozen a day), ham in redeye gravy, or roast leg of lamb, all served with a choice of two fresh vegetables (whipped potatoes, black-eyed peas, macaroni and cheese, sweet-potato soufflé, collard greens, fried okra, etc.). The fried chicken is some of the best in town--four huge pieces done the way Mama used to make it. The homemade yeast rolls and new whole wheat rolls will melt in your mouth. In addition to menu listings, there are economical blue-plate specials and fancier offerings ranging from corned beef and cabbage to frogs' legs. Fish is done exceptionally well. The portions are huge, and it's doubtful you'll have room for dessert. But if you decide to squeeze it in, the butterscotch meringue and banana pudding will satisfy any sweet tooth.