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DINING Frommer
Anis Cafe and Bistro
2974 Grandview Ave
(1 block south of Pharr Rd)
tel.: 404/233-9889
Location: 1 block south of Pharr Rd
Cuisine: French
Price Category: Moderate

In the midst of pricey Buckhead, this unpretentious cafe serves up great food at the right price. Set in a converted cottage on a side street, it's a perfect spot for a light lunch or a dinner with a French accent. The specialties are Provencal versions of healthy Mediterranean cuisine, and the atmosphere is reminiscent of that region, especially if you're lucky enough to snag a table on the tree-shaded brick patio. The key word here is informal. The service is sometimes maddeningly casual, and occasionally there are glitches in the kitchen. But if you relax and pretend you've been invited to a friend's house in the south of France, you won't be disappointed.

Starters include Nicoise salad and warm focaccia toasts topped with tomatoes, mozzarella, and fresh basil. The mussels, which are plump, plentiful, and almost as good as those served at the pricier Brasserie Le Coze, make a full meal when paired with the goat cheese salad. The pasta with lemon chicken and roasted eggplant is a great entree choice, but so are the grilled lamb chops spiked with fresh thyme. There are also several specialty coffee drinks, including espresso over ice cream. The wine list is quite respectable, and there's a full bar.

Lunch $3.95-$13.95; dinner entrees $11.95-$18.95.Open: Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm; Sun-Thurs 6-10pm; Fri-Sat 6-10:30pm.Reservations suggested.Credit Cards: AE, DC, MC, V.MARTA: Lenox.


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