You won't get chèvre or cilantro on your pies here, but you will get traditional toppings like anchovies, Italian sausage, meatballs, pepperoni, fresh mushrooms, and onions piled on cheesy New York-style pies with thin, doughy crusts that exude the heavenly aroma of fresh-baked bread. Fellini's is a classic pizza joint, and a damn good one.

It's a wacky place, very atypical for Buckhead. Most of the seating is at tables on a large outdoor patio centered on a tiered fountain, with statues of angels and gargoyles. Because it fronts Peachtree Road, it's a great spot to sit and watch the city go by. When the heat is wilting, you can retreat to the funky, spare interior. Besides the pizzas, some of which are available by the slice, there are immense, well-stuffed calzones. The beer is always ice cold.

There are several additional locations; the most convenient for visitors are in Buckhead at 1991 Howell Mill Rd. (tel. 404/352-0799), and in Midtown at 909 Ponce de Leon Ave. (tel. 404/873-3088).