Warm and welcoming, Cyrano's represents a haven of authentic bistro charm in the congested River North restaurant scene, due in no small part to the friendly presence of chef Didier Durand and his wife, Jamie. The cheery blue-and-red wood exterior, eclectic artwork, and charming personal asides on the menu ("Use of cellular phones may interfere with the stability of our whipped cream") all signal the owner's personal touch. The dining room is cozy but not overly noisy; still, Cyrano's works best for smaller groups (or romantic couples). The house specialties are the rotisserie duck and chicken served with your choice of sauce and stick-to-your-ribs classics: steak frites, roasted rabbit with mustard sauce, and cassoulet. There are also a variety of salads to choose from (and some vegetarian options), but overall this is a place to eat hearty. Be sure to start with one of Durand's sensationally flavorful soups (the lobster bisque is a highlight) or the pomme frites, served with three condiments (Dijon mustard, homemade ketchup, and mayonnaise). Service is knowledgeable and friendly; on a recent visit, my group said we were too full for dessert, but the waiter brought us a plate of sorbet on the house. "You can't eat at a French restaurant and not have some kind of dessert," he admonished (good philosophy, I think). In warmer months, a sidewalk cafe is open all day.