Across the street from the Lincoln Park Zoo and housed in the impressive former Belden-Stratford Hotel, Ambria is ensconced in several large rooms off the old lobby. It has enjoyed an enviable 20-year run as one of Chicago's finest restaurants, one of the places Chicagoans choose when they want to celebrate a special occasion. The dimly lit, wood-paneled interior is intimate, almost clublike, and eminently civilized.

The menu, masterfully orchestrated by Chef Gabino Sotelino, changes frequently but always features beautifully prepared French-influenced dishes. Appetizers might include lobster medallions in a caviar beurre blanc, or a pastry stuffed with escargot and seasonal vegetables. Main courses run the gamut from roasted rack of lamb with stuffed baby eggplant, couscous, and artichoke chips to roasted medallions of New Zealand venison with wild-rice pancakes, caramelized rhubarb, and root vegetables. You can order a la carte or from a selection of fixed-price menus (including a five-course shellfish degustation and the "Ambria Classic Menu" of tried-and-true favorites). The wine list is extensive; take advantage of the top-notch sommelier if you need guidance.