The best steakhouse in town, a wood-paneled, glass-walled place with a businesslike air, is more than just a steakhouse. A briefcase-toting crowd fills its two levels in search of traditional slabs of beef and chops as well as more-creative options. Steak au poivre and lamb chops are perfectly grilled, crusty, juicy, and tender. The inventively updated meatloaf incorporates sirloin and chorizo, and pork shank comes with toasted pasta and dandelion and onion greens. Fish dishes aren't quite as memorable as the meat offerings, but hey, it's a steakhouse. The bountiful a la carte side dishes include creamed spinach and out-of-this-world garlic mashed potatoes. Desserts are toothsome but (this is not your father's steakhouse) don't always include cheesecake. The service is exactly right for the setting, helpful but not familiar.

A couple of caveats: The excellent wine list is quite pricey, and the noise level rises as the evening progresses. Still, you probably won't realize that you're shouting until you're outside yelling about what a good meal you had.