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Frommer's Guide
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DINING Frommer
Balthazar
80 Spring St
(At Crosby St., 1 block east of Broadway)
tel.: 212/965-1414
Location: At Crosby St., 1 block east of Broadway
Cuisine: French/Belgian
Price Category: Moderate

Balthazar has been one of the hottest scenes in town since its doors opened a few years back (Chef Daniel Boulud hangs here when he's not in any of his own restaurants), and it remains high on the hip list. For good reason: With all the trappings of an authentic Parisian brasserie, the space is simply gorgeous. The classic French bistro fare, ranging from steak frites and grilled calf's liver to a delightful duck shepherd's pie and a wonderful brook trout with honey mustard glaze, is surprisingly affordable and excellently prepared. The expansive raw bar offerings are beautifully displayed and make a worthy splurge.

But don't expect comfort: The lofty room is so tightly packed and the tables so uncomfortably close that private conversation is a pipe dream; this is the loudest restaurant I've ever been in. Still, if you're willing to put up with the discomforts, this is about as exciting as a downtown scene gets. The long mirrored bar is a hopping spot unto itself that attracts beautiful people galore.

The best way to enjoy Balthazar is to come in the off-hours -- for breakfast, lunch, or a midday meal -- to enjoy the excellent fare in a more relaxing environment. Weekend brunch is busy but enjoyable, but reservations are a must. Or just stop into the adjacent boulangerie, which sells fresh-baked breads, desserts, and sandwiches to go.

Main courses $11-$20 at lunch (most less than $16), $12-$32 at dinner (most less than $21).Open: Mon-Thurs 7:30am-1:30am; Fri-Sat 7:30am-2:00am; Sun 7:30am-midnight.Reservations highly recommended (some walk-ins accepted).Credit Cards: AE, MC, V.Subway: 6 to Spring St.; N, R to Prince St.; F, V to Broadway/Lafayette St.


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