This is a sleek update on a typical Hispanic luncheonette. It's hip without being the least bit pretentious, and what the food may lack in authenticity it more than makes up for in quality and flavor: Shrimps are big and hearty; pork is moist and flavorful; cilantro and other spices are fresh and aromatic. Winning starters include pozole (hominy corn stew with shredded chicken or pork in a clear broth that you season to taste with oregano, chile, and lime); and the hugely popular Mexican corn on the cob, which is skewered, coated with lime juice and grated cheese, sprinkled with chile powder, and grilled into a messy but sweet popcorny treat. Main courses include the ultramoist roast pork (perfect with a squeeze of lime) and camarones al ajillo (shrimp in spicy garlic sauce). Most everything comes with your choice of red or black beans and rice. Wine and a handful of Mexican beers are served, but I really enjoyed the not-too-sweet red hibiscus tea.

The room is narrow and tables are petite (especially those for two), but a middle aisle keeps the place from feeling too crowded, and service is easygoing and friendly. Don't be surprised if there's a wait for a table.