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DINING Frommer
Carmine's
200 W. 44th St
(Btwn Broadway and Eighth Ave)
tel.: 212/221-3800
Location: Btwn Broadway and Eighth Ave
Cuisine: Italian
Price Category: Moderate

Everything is B-I-G at this rollicking, family-style Times Square mainstay, sibling of the original Upper West Sider. In many cases big means bad, but not here. Carmine's, with a dining room vast enough to deserve its own zip code and massive portions, remarkably turns out better pasta and entrees than most 20-table Italian restaurants. I've never had pasta here that wasn't al dente and the marinara sauce as good as any I've had in Manhattan. For starters, the daily salads are always fresh and the fried calamari perfectly tender. Rigatoni marinara; linguine with white-clam sauce; and ziti with broccoli are pasta standouts while the best meat entrees include veal parmigiana, broiled porterhouse steak, shrimp scampi, and the remarkable chicken scarpariello (chicken pan broiled with a lemon-rosemary sauce). The tiramisu is pie-size, thick and creamy, bathed in Kahlúa and Marsala. Order half of what you think you'll need. Don't expect intimate conversation here; in fact, some ear plugs might be in order. Unless you come early, expect to wait.

Family-style main courses $15-$49 (most $23 or less).Open: Tues-Sat 11:30am-midnight; Sun-Mon 11:30am-11pm.Reservations recommended before 6pm; accepted for 6 or more after 6pm.Credit Cards: AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.Subway: A, C, E, N, R, S, 1, 2, 3, 7, 9 to 42nd St./Times Sq.Also at 2450 Broadway, btwn 90th and 91st sts. (tel. 212/362-2200; subway: 1, 2, 3, 9 to 96th St.).


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