On a charming cobbled street that somehow escaped gentrification, Ñ (pronounced like the Spanish letter, eh-nyeh) is long, narrow, candlelit, and hip. Despite its cool, the staff is warm, and the extensive, award-winning sherry list is excellent. There's also a nice, fruity sangria, plus a full bar for non-Spanish tastes. You can order some of the city's best tapas, which come out of a very tiny kitchen in back.