Etrusco is just the sort of place you'd hope to stumble upon as a stranger in town. It's pretty, with a sophisticated but relaxed atmosphere, and the food is excellent. Lately, diners have been complaining about indifferent service, though, and I hope that by the time you read this, the wait staff will have regained its former professionalism. From the slate terrace at street level with umbrella tables, you descend a short flight of steps to the exquisite dining room, which resembles a trattoria with ochre and burnt sienna walls, arched skylight, and tile floor.

On the menu you'll find warm baby octopus salad, ribollita (minestrone thickened with bread and Parmesan cheese), pappardelle with shredded duck, crumb-coated grilled tuna, and the more traditional veal scaloppini and osso buco. It's all very, very good. End with "Grandfather's cake," a light chocolate pie.