Painted mirrors look over the long rectangular dining room, which since 1933 has drawn ambassadors, artists, and business leaders by day and a more romantic crowd at night. A nautical theme prevails, with fishnets, dock ropes, and masts decorating the room; captain's wheels substitute for chandeliers. Portions are huge and meticulously prepared -- an unusual combination for French-inspired cuisine. Seafood options include the Patagonian tooth fish sautéed with butter, prawns, and mushrooms, or the trout glazed with an almond sauce. If you're in the mood for beef, the chateaubriand is outstanding, and the bife de lomo (filet mignon) can be prepared seven different ways (pepper sauce with brandy is delightful, and made at your table).