American Express-- From its administrative headquarters in the Paris suburb of Reuil-Malmaison, at 4 rue de Louis-Blériot, 92561 Reuil-Malmaison CEDEX, Amex operates a 24-hour phone line (tel. 01-47-14-50-00) that handles questions about American Express services (banking, wire transfers, or emergencies that include lost or stolen Amex cards) within greater Paris. Tours, mail drop, money exchange, and wire-transfer services are available at 11 rue Scribe, 9e (tel. 01-47-14-50-00; Métro: Opéra), and a smaller branch at 38 av. Wagram, 8e (tel. 01-42-27-58-80; Métro: Ternes). Both are open for banking services Monday to Saturday from 9am to noon and from 2 to 5pm. Foreign exchange and participation in the company's many guided bus tours in and around Paris are offered at all three branches Monday to Saturday from 9am to 6pm, and Sunday (rue Scribe branch only) from 10am to 4:30pm.

Babysitters-- The best selection of English-speaking sitters is found at Kid Services, 17 rue Molière, 1e (tel. 01-42-61-90-00).

Banks-- Banks in Paris are open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm. A few are open on Saturday. Ask at your hotel for the location of the bank nearest you. Shops and most hotels will cash your traveler's checks, but not at the advantageous rate a bank or foreign-exchange office will give you, so if you don't have access to your funds through an ATM, make sure you've allowed enough funds for "le weekend."

Business Hours-- Opening hours in France are erratic, as befits a nation of individualists. Most museums close 1 day a week (often Tues) and national holidays; hours tend to be from 9:30am to 5pm. Some museums, particularly the smaller ones, close for lunch from noon to 2pm. Most museums are open Saturday, but many close Sunday morning and reopen in the afternoon. Generally, offices are open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm, but don't count on it. Always call first. Large stores are open from 9 or 9:30am (often 10am) to 6 or 7pm without a break for lunch. Some shops, particularly those operated by non-native French owners, open at 8am and close at 8 or 9pm. In some small stores, the lunch break can last 3 hours, beginning at 1pm.

Dentists-- For emergency dental service, call S.O.S. Dentaire, 87 bd. du Port-Royal, 13e (tel. 01-43-37-51-00; Métro: Port-Royal), Monday to Friday from 8pm to midnight and Saturday and Sunday from 9:30am to midnight. For 24-hour walk-in relief, we suggest L'Hôpital Salpetrière, 47 Bd. de l'Hôpital, 75013 Paris (tel. 01-42-16-00-00), which specializes in handling accidents affecting the mouth, teeth, and jaws, as well as agonizing toothaches. You can also call or visit the American Hospital, 63 bd. Victor-Hugo, Neuilly (tel. 01-46-41-25-25; Métro: Pont de Levallois or Pont de Neuilly; Bus: 82). A 24-hour English/French dental clinic is on the premises.

Drugstores-- After regular hours, ask at your hotel where the nearest 24-hour pharmacie is. You'll also find the address posted on the doors or windows of other drugstores in the neighborhood. One all-night drugstore is the Pharmacie Derhy, in La Galerie Les Champs, 84 av. des Champs-Elysées, 8e (tel. 01-45-62-02-41; Métro: George V).

Electricity-- In general, expect 200 volts AC (60 cycles), though you'll encounter 110 and 115 volts in some older establishments. Adapters are needed to fit sockets. Many hotels have two-pin (in some cases, three-pin) sockets for electric razors. It's best to ask at your hotel before plugging in any electrical appliance.

Embassies/Consulates-- If you have a passport, immigration, legal, or other problem, contact your consulate. Call before you go, as they often keep strange hours and observe both French and home-country holidays.

The Embassy of the United States, at 2 av. Gabriel, 8e (tel. 01-43-12-22-22; Métro: Concorde), is open Monday to Friday from 9am to 6pm. Passports are issued at its consulate at 2 rue St-Florentin (tel. 01-36-70-14-88; Métro: Concorde). Getting a passport replaced costs $55. The Embassy of Canada is at 35 av. Montaigne, 8e (tel. 01-44-43-29-00; Métro: Franklin D. Roosevelt or Alma-Marceau); it is open Monday to Friday from 9am to noon and 2 to 4pm. The Canadian consulate is at the embassy. The Embassy of the United Kingdom, at 35 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8e (tel. 01-44-51-31-00; Métro: Concorde or Madeleine), is open Monday to Friday from 9:30am to 12:30pm and 2:30 to 5pm. The consulate is at the same address. The Embassy of Australia is at 4 rue Jean-Rey, 15e (tel. 01-40-59-33-00; Métro: Bir Hakeim), and is open Monday to Friday from 9:15am to noon and 2:30 to 4:30pm. The Embassy of New Zealand is at 7 ter rue Léonard-de-Vinci, 16e (tel. 01-45-00-24-11; Métro: Victor-Hugo); it is open Monday to Friday from 9am to 1pm and 2:30 to 6pm. The Embassy of Ireland, at 4 rue Rude, 16e (tel. 01-44-17-67-00; Métro: Etoile), is open Monday to Friday from 9:30am to noon.

Emergencies-- For the police, call tel. 17; to report a fire, call tel. 18. For an ambulance, call the fire department at tel. 01-45-78-74-52; a fire vehicle rushes patients to the nearest emergency room. For S.A.M.U., an independently operated, privately owned ambulance company, call tel. 15. For less urgent matters, you can reach the police at 9 bd. du Palais, 4e (tel. 01-53-73-53-71 or 01-53-73-53-73; Métro: Cité).

Hospitals-- Open Monday to Saturday from 8am to 7pm, Central Médical Europe, 44 rue d'Amsterdam, 9e (tel. 01-42-81-93-33; Métro: Liège or St-Lazare), maintains contacts with medical and dental practitioners in all fields. Appointments are recommended. Another choice is the American Hospital of Paris, 63 bd. Victor-Hugo, Neuilly (tel. 01-46-41-25-25; Métro: Pont de Levallois or Pont de Neuilly; Bus: 82), which operates 24-hour medical and dental services. An additional clinic is the Centre Figuier, 2 rue du Figuier, 4e (tel. 01-49-96-62-70; Métro: St-Paul). Call before visiting.

Internet Access-- To surf the Net or check your e-mail, try the Cybercafé Latino, 13 rue de l'Ecole Polytechnique, 5e (tel. 01-40-51-86-94; www.cybercafelatino.com; Métro: Maubert-Mutualité), open daily from 1pm to 2am, or Le Rendez-vous Toyota, 79 av. des Champs-Elysées, 8e (tel. 01-56-89-29-79; www.lerendez-voustoyota.com; Métro: George V), open Tuesday to Thursday from 10:30am to 9pm, Friday and Saturday from 10:30am to midnight, and Sunday from 10:30am to 9pm. See also Le Web Bar in chapter 10.

Liquor Laws-- Supermarkets, grocery stores, and cafes sell alcoholic beverages. The legal drinking age is 16, but persons under that age can be served alcohol in a bar or restaurant if accompanied by a parent or legal guardian. Wine and liquor are sold every day of the week, year-round. Hours of cafes vary. Some open at 6am, serving drinks to 3am; others are open 24 hours. Bars and nightclubs may stay open as late as they wish.

The Breathalyzer test is used in France, and a motorist is considered "legally intoxicated" with 0.5 grams of alcohol per liter of blood (the more liberal U.S. law is 1g per liter). If convicted, a motorist faces a stiff fine and a possible prison term of 2 months to 2 years. If bodily injury results, sentences can range from 2 years to life.

Mail/Post Offices-- Most post offices in Paris are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 7pm and Saturday from 8am to noon. The main post office (PTT) for Paris is at 52 rue du Louvre, 75001 Paris (tel. 01-40-28-76-00; Métro: Louvre). It's open 24 hours a day for the sale of stamps, phone calls, and sending faxes and telegrams, with limited hours (Mon-Fri 8am-5pm and Sat 8am-noon) for services like the sale of money orders. Stamps can usually be purchased at your hotel reception desk and at cafes with red TABAC signs. You can send faxes at the main post office in each arrondissement.

Airmail letters within Europe cost .45€; to the United States and Canada, .65€; and to Australia and New Zealand, .80€. You can have mail sent to you poste restante (general delivery) at the main post office for a small fee. Take an ID, such as a passport, to pick up mail. American Express offers a poste restante service, but you may be asked to show an American Express card or traveler's checks.

Newspapers/Magazines-- English-language newspapers are available at nearly every kiosk. Published Monday to Saturday, the International Herald-Tribune is the most popular paper with visiting Americans and Canadians; the Guardian provides a British point of view. For those who read in French, the leading domestic newspapers are Le Monde, Le Figaro, and Libération; the top magazines are L'Express, Le Point, and Le Nouvel Observateur. Kiosks are generally open daily from 8am to 9pm.

Pets-- If you have certificates from a vet and proof of rabies vaccination, you can bring most house pets into France.

Police-- Call tel. 17 for emergencies. The principal Préfecture (police station) is at 9 bd. du Palais, 4e (tel. 01-53-71-53-71; Métro: Cité).

Restrooms-- If you're in dire need, duck into a cafe or brasserie to use the toilet. It's customary to make some small purchase if you do so. In the street, the domed self-cleaning lavatories are a decent option if you have small change; Métro stations and underground garages usually have public lavatories, but the degree of cleanliness varies.

Safety-- In Paris, be especially aware of child pickpockets. They roam the capital, preying on tourists around attractions like the Louvre, Eiffel Tower, and Notre-Dame, and they also often strike in the Métro, sometimes blocking a victim from the escalator. A band of these young thieves can clean your pockets even while you try to fend them off. Their method is to get very close to a target, ask for a handout (sometimes), and deftly help themselves to your money or passport.

Although public safety is not as much a problem in Paris as it is in large American cities, concerns are growing. Robbery at gun- or knifepoint is uncommon, but not unknown. Be careful.

Telephone-- Public phones are found in cafes, restaurants, Métro stations, post offices, airports, and train stations, and occasionally on the streets. Finding a coin-operated telephone in France is an arduous task. A simpler and more widely accepted method of payment is the télécarte, a prepaid calling card available at kiosks, post offices, and Métro stations and costing 7.45€ to 15€ for 50 and 120 units, respectively. A local call costs one unit, which provides you with 6 to 18 minutes of conversation, depending on the rate. Avoid making calls from your hotel, which might double or triple the charges.

To call long distance within France, dial the 10-digit number (9-digit in some cases outside Paris) of the person or place you're calling. To make a direct international call, first dial 00, listen for the tone, then slowly dial the country code, the area code, and the local number. The country code for the U.S. and Canada is 1; Great Britain, 44; Ireland, 353; Australia, 61; New Zealand, 64; and South Africa, 27.

An easy and relatively inexpensive way to call home is USA Direct/AT&T World Connect. From within France, dial any of the following numbers: (tel. 0800/99-00-11, -10-11, -11-11, or -12-11). Then follow the prompt, which will ask you to punch in the number of either your AT&T credit card or a MasterCard or Visa. Along with the U.S., the countries participating in the system -- referred to as World Connect -- include Canada, the United Kingdom, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand. By punching in the number of the party you want in any of these countries, you'll avoid the surcharges imposed by the hotel operator. An AT&T operator is available to help should complications arise during the process.

Time-- France is usually 6 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time and 9 hours ahead of Pacific Standard Time in the United States. French daylight saving time lasts from around April to September, when clocks are set 1 hour ahead of the standard time.

Tipping-- By law, all bills show service compris, which means the tip is included; additional gratuities are customarily given as follows: For hotel staff, tip the porter 1.05€ to 1.50€ per item of baggage, and 1.50€ per day for the chambermaid. You're not obligated to tip the concierge, doorman, or anyone else unless you use his or her services. In cafes and restaurants, waiter service is usually included, though you can leave some small change, if you like. Tip taxi drivers 12% to 15% of the amount on the meter. In theaters and restaurants, give cloakroom attendants at least .75€ per item. Give restroom attendants in nightclubs and such places about .30€. Tip the hairdresser about 15%, and don't forget to tip the person who gives you a shampoo or a manicure 1.50€. For guides for group visits to museums and monuments, .75€ to 1.50€ is a reasonable tip.

Water-- Drinking water is generally safe, though some who are unused to it have gotten diarrhea. If you ask for water in a restaurant, it'll be bottled water (for which you'll pay), unless you specifically request tap water (l'eau du robinet).