Isla Mujeres

The island of Isla Mujeres, just 13km (8 miles) offshore, is one of the most pleasant day trips from Cancún. At one end is El Garrafón Natural Park, which is excellent for snorkeling. At the other end is a captivating village with small shops, restaurants, and hotels, and Playa Norte, the island's best beach. If you're looking for relaxation and can spare the time, it's worth several days.

There are four ways to get there: public ferry from Puerto Juárez, which takes between 15 and 45 minutes; shuttle boat from Playa Linda or Playa Tortuga -- an hour-long ride, with irregular service; Watertaxi (more expensive, but faster), next to the Xcaret Terminal; and daylong pleasure-boat trips, most of which leave from the Playa Linda pier.

The inexpensive Puerto Juárez public ferries are just a few kilometers from downtown Cancún. From Cancún City, take the Ruta 8 bus on Avenida Tulum to Puerto Juárez. The Caribbean Express (20 min.) costs $4.50 per person. Departures are every half hour, starting between 6 and 7am and ending between 9 and 11pm. The Caribbean Savage (45-60 min.) is a bargain at about $2. It departs every 2 hours, or less frequently depending on demand. Upon arrival, the ferry docks in downtown Isla Mujeres near all the shops, restaurants, hotels, and Norte beach. You'll need a taxi to get to El Garrafón park, at the other end of the island. You can stay as long as you like on the island (even overnight) and return by ferry, but be sure to double-check the time of the last returning ferry.

Pleasure-boat cruises to Isla Mujeres are a favorite pastime. Modern motor yachts, catamarans, trimarans, and even old-time sloops -- more than 25 boats a day -- take swimmers, sun lovers, snorkelers, and shoppers out on the translucent waters. Some tours include a snorkeling stop at El Garrafón, lunch on the beach, and a short time for shopping in downtown Isla Mujeres. Most leave at 9:30 or 10am, last about 5 or 6 hours, and include continental breakfast, lunch, and rental of snorkel gear. Others, particularly sunset and night cruises, go to beaches away from town for pseudo-pirate shows and include a lobster dinner or Mexican buffet. If you want to actually see Isla Mujeres, go on a morning cruise, or travel on your own using the public ferry from Puerto Juárez. Prices for the day cruises run around $55 per person.

In the El Garrafón park area is El Garrafón Natural Park, which is under the same management as Xcaret (tel. 998/883-3143;. The basic entrance fee of $22 includes access to the reef and a museum, as well as use of kayaks, inner tubes, life vests, the pool, hammocks, and public facilities and showers. Snorkel gear and lockers can be rented for an extra charge. There are also nature trails as well as several restaurants on-site. An all-inclusive option is available for $46, which includes dining on whatever you choose at any of the restaurants, plus unlimited domestic drinks and use of snorkel gear, locker, and towel. El Garrafón also has full dive facilities and gear rentals, plus an expansive gift shop.

Other excursions go to the reefs in glass-bottom boats, so you can have a near-scuba-diving experience and see many colorful fish. However, the reefs are some distance from the shore and are impossible to reach on windy days with choppy seas. They've also suffered from overvisitation, and their condition is far from pristine. The glass-bottomed Nautibus (tel. 998/883-3732 or 998/883-2119) has been around for years. Trips begin at 9:30 and 11am, and 12:30 and 2pm from the El Embarcadero Pier. The journey to the Chitale coral reef to see colorful fish takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes, with about 50 minutes of transit time back and forth. Tickets cost $35 for adults, $16 for children 6 to 12. Nautibus's Atlantis Submarine takes you close to the aquatic action. Departures vary, depending on weather conditions. Prices range from $44 to $65, depending on the length of the trip. Reservations are recommended for both. Other boat excursions visit Isla Contoy, a national bird sanctuary that's well worth the time. If you are planning to spend time in Isla Mujeres, the Contoy trip is easier and more pleasurable to take from there.