Downtown & Little Italy--Only a decade or so ago, downtown was the domain of a few high-priced and highfalutin Continental and American restaurants and little else. But the area was turned on its ear when Horton Plaza was redeveloped. Swank spots began moving in to the Gaslamp Quarter's restored Victorian buildings in the late 1980s. Although the initial trend--no doubt designed to cater to the meeting-and-convention crowd--leaned to thick steaks and heaping plates of pasta, we're starting to notice a change toward the less heavy and the more ethnic. Today, the Gaslamp positively percolates with its concentration of dining options, at all price levels and showcasing a variety of cuisines. As half-million-dollar downtown condos continue to be bought up before they're even built, watch for the number and variety of restaurants here to swell even further.
Our downtown section is hardly limited to the 16 1/2-block Gaslamp Quarter (although that's where you'll find the nightlife after 9pm). The Embarcadero, a stretch of waterfront along the bay, is also home to several great eating spots, all of which capitalize on their bay views. And Little Italy--home to stalwart Filippi's Pizza Grotto--has benefited from the arrival of Indigo Grill, where the fusion of cuisines seems to include almost everything but Italian. There are several excellent restaurants just north of the "border" created by the I-5--these are described in the Hillcrest/Uptown section that follows.
Fridays and Saturdays can be very busy, and when a convention has filled the streets with visitors you may have to compete for parking (fortunately, pedicabs--three-wheeled bikes that carry two passengers--are easy to hire). Downtown dining tends to be more formal than elsewhere, because of the business clientele and evening theater- and operagoers, but no one posts a jacket policy anymore. If you stroll down Fifth Avenue between E and Market streets, you'll find a month's worth of restaurants, all packed with a fashionable, mainly local crowd.
Hillcrest/Uptown--Hillcrest and the other gentrified uptown neighborhoods to its west and east are jam-packed with great food for any palate (and any wallet). Some are old standbys filled nightly with loyal regulars; others are cutting-edge experiments that might be gone next year. Whether it's ethnic food, French food, health-conscious bistro fare, retro comfort food, specialty cafes and bakeries, and California cuisine, they're often mastered with the innovative panache you'd expect in the most nonconformist part of town.
Cafe W, 3680 Sixth Ave. (tel. 619/291-0200), is the latest venture of Chris Walsh, formerly of California Cuisine. This time he does flavorful international tapas-style small plates in a revived Hillcrest cottage with chic decor. Nearby, Hash House a Go Go, 3628 Fifth Ave. (tel. 619/298-4646), is another reconverted building with an equally eclectic pun-filled menu. They serve three meals a day, but breakfast is the locals' choice; you'd better be hungry, because portions are mountainous. Also note that the popular Whole Foods supermarket, 711 University Ave. (tel. 619/294-2800), has a mouthwatering deli and a robust salad bar--you can pack for a picnic or eat at the tables up front.
Old Town & Mission Valley--Visitors usually have at least one meal in Old Town, and although this area showcases San Diego at its most touristy, I can't argue with the appeal of dining in California's charming and oldest settlement. Mexican food and bathtub-size margaritas are the big draws, as are mariachi music and colorful decor. For a change of pace, stop by Mrs. Burton's Tea Parlor in Heritage Park (tel. 619/294-4600), where afternoon tea is served with an assortment of sandwiches, scones, tarts, and fresh fruit for $18 ($15 for children 12 and under); reservations are requested, and it's closed on Mondays.
Old Town is also the gateway to the decidedly less historic Mission Valley. Here you'll find plenty of chain eateries, both good and bad, and not discussed in depth below. In the very busy Fashion Valley Shopping Center complex lies Cheesecake Factory, California Pizza Kitchen, and P.F. Chang's--expect long waits for a table at each. In or near the Mission Valley Shopping Center is an Outback Steakhouse, Hooters, and Mimi's Cafe.
Mission Bay & the Beaches--Generally speaking, restaurants at the beach exist primarily to provide an excuse for sitting and gazing at the water. Because this activity is most commonly accompanied by steady drinking, it stands to reason that the food isn't often remarkable. We've tried to balance the most scenic of these typical hangouts with places actually known for outstanding food--with a little effort, they can be found.
Noteworthy beach spots include Kono's Surf Club Cafe, 704 Garnet Ave., Pacific Beach (tel. 858/483-1669), a Hawaiian-themed boardwalk breakfast shack that's cheap and delicious. A plump Kono's breakfast burrito provides enough fuel for a day of surfing or sightseeing, while a side order of savory "Kono Potatoes" is a meal in itself.
La Jolla--As befits an upscale community with time (and money) on its hands, La Jolla seems to have more than its fair share of good restaurants. Happily, they are mostly affordable, and more ethnically diverse than you might expect in a community that still supports a haberdashery called The Ascot Shop. While many restaurants are clustered in the village, on Prospect Street and the few blocks directly east, you can also cruise down La Jolla Boulevard or up by the La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club for additional choices.
Branches of establishments described elsewhere in this section include the reliable Chart House, 1270 Prospect St. (tel. 858/459-8201).
La Jolla restaurants don't serve very late. If you get hungry after the traditional dinner hour, head for Karl Strauss Brewery & Grill, 1044 Wall St. (tel. 858/551-BREW), where the kitchen stays open until 9pm Monday through Wednesday, 10pm on Thursday and Sunday, and 11pm on Friday and Saturday.
Coronado--Rather like the conservative, old-school navy aura that pervades the entire "island," Coronado's dining options are reliable and often quite good, but the restaurants aren't breaking new culinary ground.
Some notable exceptions are the resort dining rooms, which seem to be waging a little rivalry over who can attract the most prestigious, multiple-award-winning executive chef. If you're in the mood for a special-occasion meal that'll knock your socks off, consider Azzura Point (tel. 619/424-4000), in Loews Coronado Bay Resort. With its plushly upholstered, gilded, and view-endowed setting, this stylish dining room wins continual raves from deep-pocketed San Diego foodies willing to cross the bay for inventive and artistic California-Mediterranean creations. The Hotel Del's fancy Prince of Wales (tel. 619/522-8496) is equally scenic, gazing at the beach across the hotel's regal Windsor Lawn; the eclectic California menu always showcases the best of seasonally fresh ingredients.
But if you seek ethnic or funky food, better head back across the bridge. Mexican fare (gringo-style, but well practiced) is served on the island at popular Miguel's Cocina, inside El Cordova Hotel (tel. 619/437-4237).
Off the Beaten Path--Don't limit your dining experience in San Diego to the main tourist zones outlined above. Five minutes north of Mission Valley is the mostly business neighborhood of Kearny Mesa, home to San Diego's best Asian venues. One to try is Emerald Restaurant, 3709 Convoy St. (tel. 858/565-6888), which occupies a nondescript building sandwiched between the 805 and 163 freeways; the room is spare, but the kitchen exhibits finesse with southern Chinese delicacies and always has excellent (sometimes pricey) live fish specials. Nearby is Jasmine, 4609 Convoy St. (tel. 858/268-0888), which at lunch showcases Hong Kong-style dumplings that are wheeled around the room on carts; dinners are more elaborate, with Peking duck two ways a good choice.
Just east of Hillcrest (south and parallel to Mission Valley) is Adams Avenue, one of the city's streets of character, with antiques shops and bistros en route to Kensington. Here you'll find the Kensington Grill , 4055 Adams Ave., next to the Ken Cinema (tel. 619/281-4014), owned by the same crew in charge of the Gaslamp's hip Chive restaurant and featuring contemporary American cuisine in a chic setting that draws lots of neighborhood types. In nearby Normal Heights, Jyoti Bihanga, 3351 Adams Ave. (tel. 619/282-4116), caters to followers of Sri Chinmoy and delivers a vegetarian menu of Indian-influenced salads, wraps, and curries; the "neatloaf" is a winner. All items are priced under $10.
