Gliding silently over the water, propelled by a paddle, seeing Maui from the sea the way the early Hawaiians did -- that's what ocean kayaking is all about. One of Maui's best kayak routes is along the Kihei Coast, where there's easy access to calm water. Early mornings are always best, because the wind comes up around 11am, making seas choppy and paddling difficult.

The island's cheapest kayak rentals are at the Activity Warehouse (tel. 800/343-2087; www.travelhawaii.com), which has branches in Lahaina at 578 Front St., near Prison Street (tel. 808/667-4000), and in Kihei at Azeka Place II, on the mountain side of Kihei Road near Lipoa Street (tel. 808/875-4000), where one-person kayaks are $10 a day, and two-person kayaks are $15 a day.

For the uninitiated, our favorite kayak-tour operator is Makena Kayak Tours (tel. 877/879-8426 or 808/879-8426; makenakyak@aol.com). Professional guide Dino Ventura leads a 2 1/2-hour trip from Makena Landing and loves taking first-timers over the secluded coral reefs and into remote coves. His wonderful tour will be a highlight of your vacation. It costs $55, including refreshments and snorkel and kayak equipment.

South Pacific Kayaks, 2439 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei (tel. 800/776-2326 or 808/875-4848; www.mauikayak.com), is Maui's oldest kayak-tour company. Its expert guides lead ocean-kayak trips that include lessons, a guided tour, and snorkeling. Tours run from 2 1/2 to 5 hours and range in price from $55 to $89. South Pacific also offers kayak rentals starting at $30 a day.

In Hana, Hana-Maui Sea Sports (tel. 808/248-7711) runs 2-hour tours of Hana's coastline on wide, stable "no roll" kayaks for $79 per person.