Every winter, pods of Pacific humpback whales make the 3,000-mile swim from the chilly waters of Alaska to bask in Maui's summery shallows, fluking, spy hopping, spouting, and having an all-around swell time.
The humpback is the star of the annual whale-watching season, which usually begins in January and lasts until April or sometimes May. About 1,500 to 3,000 humpback whales appear in Hawaii waters each year. Humpbacks are one of the world's oldest, most impressive inhabitants. Adults grow to be about 45 feet long and weigh a hefty 40 tons (40,642kg). Humpbacks are officially an endangered species; in 1997, some of the waters around the state were designated the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary, the country's only federal single-species sanctuary.
Whale Watching From Shore
Between mid-December and April, you can just look out to sea. There's no best time of day for whale-watching, but the whales seem to appear when the sea is glassy and the wind calm. Once you see one, keep watching in the same vicinity; they might stay down for 20 minutes. Bring a book -- and binoculars, if you can. You can rent binoculars for $2 a day at the Activity Warehouse (tel. 800/343-2087; www.travelhawaii.com), which has branches in Lahaina at 578 Front St., near Prison Street (tel. 808/667-4000), and in Kihei at Azeka Place II, on the mountain side of Kihei Road near Lipoa Street (tel. 808/875-4000). Some good whale-watching points on Maui are:
McGregor Point -- On the way to Lahaina, there's a scenic lookout at mile marker 9 (just before you get to the Lahaina Tunnel); it's a good viewpoint to scan for whales.
Outrigger Wailea Resort -- On the Wailea coastal walk, stop at this resort to look for whales through the telescope installed as a public service by the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary.
Olowalu Reef -- Along the straight part of Honoapiilani Highway, between McGregor Point and Olowalu, you'll often spot whales leaping out of the water. Sometimes, their appearance brings traffic to a screeching halt: People abandon their cars and run down to the sea to watch, causing a major traffic jam. If you stop, pull off the road so that others can pass.
Puu Olai -- It's a tough climb up this coastal landmark near the Maui Prince Hotel, but you're likely to be well rewarded: This is the island's best spot for offshore whale-watching. On the 360-foot cinder cone overlooking Makena Beach, you'll be at the right elevation to see Pacific humpbacks as they dodge Molokini and cruise up Alalakeiki Channel between Maui and Kahoolawe. If you don't see one, you'll at least have a whale of a view.
Whale Watching Cruises
For a closer look, take a whale-watching cruise. The Pacific Whale Foundation, 101 N. Kihei Rd., Kihei (tel. 800/942-5311 or 808/879-8811; www.pacificwhale.org), is a nonprofit foundation in Kihei that supports its whale research by offering cruises and snorkel tours, some to Molokini and Lanai. They operate a 65-foot power catamaran called the Ocean Spirit, a 50-foot sailing catamaran called the Manute'a, and a sea kayak. They have 15 daily trips to choose from, and their rates for a 2-hour whale-watching cruise would make Captain Ahab smile (starting at $20 for adults, $15 for children). Cruises are offered from December through May, out of both Lahaina and Maalaea harbors.
The Ocean Activities Center (tel. 800/798-0652 or 808/879-4485), in season, runs 2-hour whale-watching cruises on its own spacious 65-foot catamaran; trips range from $25 to $32 for adults and $15 to $20 for children ages 3 to 12. The best deal to Molokini is the 5-hour Maka Kai cruise, which includes a continental breakfast, deli lunch, snorkel gear, and instruction; it's $60 for adults, $50 for teenagers, and $40 for children ages 3 to 12. Trips leave from Maalaea Harbor, slip 62. They also have a sportfishing charter boat (6-hr. shared boat starts at $135) and bottom fishing cruises for $95 per angler.
If you want to combine ocean activities, then a snorkel or dive cruise to Molokini, the sunken crater off Maui's south coast, might be just the ticket. You can see whales on the way there, at no extra charge.
Whale Watching By Kayak & Raft
Seeing a humpback whale from an ocean kayak or raft is awesome. The best budget deal for rafting is Capt. Steve's Rafting Excursions (tel. 808/667-5565; www.captainsteves.com), which offers 2-hour whale-watching excursions out of Lahaina Harbor. Take the early bird trip at 7:30am and spot some whales for only $35 per person (regular rates are $45 for adults, $35 for children 12 and under).
Not So Close! They Hardly Know You--In your excitement at seeing a whale or a school of dolphins, don't get too close -- both are protected under the Marine Mammals Protection Act. Swimmers, kayakers, and windsurfers must stay at least 100 yards away from all whales, dolphins, and other marine mammals. And yes, they have prosecuted visitors for swimming with dolphins! If you have any questions, call the National Marine Fisheries Service (tel. 808/541-2727) or the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary (tel. 800/831-4888).
