In the past 3 decades, Maui has grown from a rural island to a fast-paced resort destination, but its natural beauty largely remains; there are still many places that can be explored only on foot. Those interested in seeing the backcountry -- complete with virgin waterfalls, remote wilderness trails, and quiet meditative settings -- should head for Haleakala's upcountry or the tropical Hana coast.
Camping on Maui can be extreme (inside a volcano) or benign (by the sea in Hana). It can be wet, cold, and rainy, or hot, dry, and windy -- often all on the same day. If you're heading for Haleakala, remember that U.S. astronauts trained for the moon inside the volcano; bring survival gear. Don't forget both your swimsuit and your rain gear if you're bound for Waianapanapa.
Rental gear (as well as gear for sale) is available from The Base Camp, 3619 Baldwin Ave. (on the way to Haleakala), Makawao (tel. 808/573-2267).
For more information on Maui camping and hiking trails and to obtain free maps, contact Haleakala National Park, P.O. Box 369, Makawao, HI 96768 (tel. 808/572-4400; www.nps.gov/hale), and the State Division of Forestry and Wildlife, 54 S. High St., Wailuku, HI 96793 (tel. 808/984-8100; www.hawaii.gov). For information on trails, hikes, and camping, and permits for state parks, contact the Hawaii State Department of Land and Natural Resources, State Parks Division, P.O. Box 621, Honolulu, HI 96809 (tel. 808/587-0300; www.state.hi.us/dlnr); note that you can get information from the website but cannot obtain permits there. For information on Maui County Parks, contact Maui County Parks and Recreation, 1580-C Kaahumanu Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793 (tel. 808/243-7380; www.mauimapp.com).
Tips on Safe Hiking & Camping -- Water might be everywhere in Hawaii, but it more than likely isn't safe to drink. Most stream water must be treated because cattle, pigs, and goats have probably contaminated the water upstream. The department of health continually warns campers of bacterium leptospirosis, which is found in freshwater streams throughout the state and enters the body through breaks in the skin or through the mucous membranes. It produces flulike symptoms and can be fatal. Make sure that your drinking water is safe by vigorously boiling it, or if boiling is not an option, use tablets with hydroperiodide; portable water filters will not screen out the bacterium leptospirosis. Since firewood isn't always available, it's a good idea to carry a small, light backpacking stove, which you can use both to boil water and to cook meals for your hiking and camping adventures.
Remember, the island is not crime-free: Never leave your valuables (wallet, airline ticket, and so on) unprotected. Carry a day pack if you have a campsite, and never camp alone. Some more do's and don'ts: Do bury personal waste away from streams, don't eat unknown fruit, do carry your trash out, and don't forget there is very little twilight in Maui when the sun sets -- it gets dark quickly.
