Deep Ellum, the rowdy district east of downtown, is entering its second decade as the epicenter of live music and late-night dance clubs. It used to play almost exclusively to the alternative scene, but it has expanded its offerings to include discos, blues bars, and honky-tonks. The top live music venues include Dallas's current standard bearer for live performance, the Gypsy Tea Room, 2548 Elm St. (tel. 214/74-GYPSY; www.gypsytearoom.com), which contains a vintage hall, as well as long-timers Trees, 2709 Elm St. (tel. 214/748-5009; www.trees.com), with a stellar record for hosting the latest and greatest alternative bands, and Club Dada, 2720 Elm St. (tel. 214/744-DADA), where you'll find rock as well as folk acts. Competing for some of the same acts as the Gypsy Tea Room are the more spacious Sons of Hermann Hall, 3414 Elm St. (tel. 214/747-4422), which is equal parts pickup bar, live music venue, and honky-tonk, hosting rock, country, and occasional rockabilly acts (and swing dance classes on Wed); and old favorite Bronco Bowl (and the tiny bar tucked inside, Canyon Club), 2600 Fort Worth Ave. (tel. 214/943-1777). For live Christian rock and pop, check out The Door, 3202 Elm St. (tel. 214/742-DOOR).

Greenville Bar & Grill, 2821 Lower Greenville Ave. (tel. 214/823-6691), has been cool since I was sneaking in as a high school senior. The crowd, mostly folks intent on resisting the big 4-0, come for rock, country, and blues nightly. Around since 1933, it's also a good spot for a casual meal. In the district that cradled blues legend Blind Lemon Jefferson, live blues are on the card Thursday through Sunday at Blue Cat Blues, 2612 Commerce St. (tel. 214/744-CATS). Dallas Alley, Munger Avenue at Marker Street (tel. 214/720-0170), is a touristy mix of bars aimed at businessmen entertaining clients and visitors staying in West End hotels. From karaoke to country and oldies clubs, it's one-stop shopping for most groups looking for a night out on the town with a view of the skyline. Don't count on heaps of local flavor and authenticity, but the drinking and carousing seem contagious for most.

For live jazz nightly, dark and ambience-heavy Sambuca, 2618 Elm St. (tel. 214/744-0820), as much restaurant as jazz cafe, has the proper look. A bit of Greenwich Village and a dose of Paris, it is hands-down Dallas's best jazz club, with real rather than light jazz. It has another North Dallas branch, also a Mediterranean restaurant, at 15207 Addison Rd. at Belt Line, in Addison (tel. 972/385-8455). Balcony Club, 1825 Abrams at La Vista (tel. 214/826-8104), is a relaxed and popular place near the historic Lakewood Theater, with live jazz Thursday through Saturday. You can usually find some live jazz and blues at Poor David's Pub, 1924 Lower Greenville Ave. (tel. 214/821-9891), a venerable old club that shows its age delightfully.