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Frommer's Guide
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FEATURES AND EVENTS
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Held Annually: Third weekend in January
Locale: Kalibo, Phillipines
Nearest Airport:
Kalibo (KLO)
General Information:
Philippine Department of Tourism, tel. 312-782-2475, 212-575-7915
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Ati-Atihan is often called the Filipino Mardi Gras, but the soot-blackened, drunken revelry of this event reaches extremes of confusion and chaos that even New Orleans or Rio would have trouble matching. In the writhing streets and squares of Kalibo, masked lion dancers shimmy with giddy cowgirls; King Kong drummers dance the merengue with tipsy burlesque queens; and charcoal-faced cultural warriors guzzle tequila in mid-battle with Spanish conquistadors. Everywhere, ad-hoc bands kick up a distorted racket and people shout the Ati-Atihan mantra "Hala Bira, Puera Pasma!" ("Keep on going, keep on!").
No expense is spared as everyone splurges on costumes, food, and drink. The costumes are among the world's most colorful and creative, making this an exceptionally photogenic event. Locals love to pose in photos with outsiders, and visitors can expect over-the-top hospitality wherever they go. European-looking people are greeted with the ubiquitous "Hey, Joe!" followed by handshakes, hugs, outstretched bottles, and invitations to parties. Food and drink are offered with boundless generosity, and travelers who are lucky enough to wander into the fray are welcomed like family, treated like royalty, and bid farewell like old friends.•
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