Old Town & Downtown
Start: Skidmore Fountain.
Finish: Skidmore Fountain.
Time: Allow approximately 3 to 4 hours, including breaks, museum visits, and shopping stops.
Best Times: Saturday and Sunday between March and December, when the Portland Saturday Market is open.
Worst Times: After dark, when the Skidmore neighborhood is not as safe as in daylight.
Although Portland was founded in 1843, most of the buildings in Old Town date only from the 1880s. A fire in 1872 razed much of the town, which afterward was rebuilt with new vigor. Ornate pilasters, pediments, and cornices grace these brick buildings. However, the most notable features of Old Town's buildings are the cast-iron facades.
Begin your exploration of this 20-block historic neighborhood in the heart of Old Town. At the corner of SW First Avenue and Ankeny Street is:
1. Skidmore Fountain--Erected in 1888, the fountain was intended to provide refreshment for "horses, men, and dogs," and it did that for many years. Today, however, the bronze and granite fountain is primarily decorative.
Across SW First Avenue is the:
2. New Market Block--Constructed in 1872 to house the unlikely combination of a produce market and a theater, the New Market Block contains some unusual shops and budget restaurants, as do many of the restored historic buildings in this area. The free-standing wall of archways extending out from the New Market Building was salvaged from an Old Town structure that didn't survive the urban renewal craze of the 1960s.
Two blocks south, at 235 SW First Ave., is the:
3. Failing Building--Built in 1886, this attractive structure integrates French and Italian influences. (This building houses McCormick and Schmick's seafood restaurant, a good place for lunch if the Saturday Market is closed.)
Turn left on SW Oak Street and you'll pass by the:
4. Dielschneider Building--This structure at 71 SW Oak St. was originally a foundry. Built in 1859, it's the third oldest commercial building in Portland. The casting initials of one of the first tenants, Oregon Ironworks, can be seen on the building's threshold plates.
Take a left on SW Naito Parkway (Front Avenue) where you'll find:
5. Smith's Block--Located from 111-117 SW Naito Parkway, it contains some of the most beautifully restored buildings in Old Town. At one time this whole district was filled with elegant structures such as these. The cast-iron filigree appears both solid and airy at the same time.
Here, at 113 SW Naito Pkwy., you'll find the:
6. Oregon Maritime Center and Museum--This museum is dedicated to Oregon's shipping history. the complete listing in chapter 16 for details.
Continue along SW Naito Parkway to SW Ankeny, where you'll see the:
7. Jeff Morris Memorial Fire Museum--It houses several pieces of old fire-fighting equipment, including historic horse-drawn steamers from the early part of the 20th century. Because this museum is part of an active fire station and because the equipment is packed so tightly together, you can't actually go inside the museum. You'll have to be satisfied with looking through the glass doors that face the street.
If it's a Saturday or Sunday between March and December, you will no doubt have noticed the crowds under the Burnside bridge ahead of you. This is the:
8. Portland Saturday Market--Here you'll find the best of Northwest crafts being sold by their makers. There typically are more than 250 booths plus entertainers and food vendors.
Take A Break--Portland Saturday Market makes an excellent refueling stop in this neighborhood. In the market's food court you can get all manner of delicious, healthful, and fun foods.
After you've visited the market, walk north on the east side of NW First Avenue. Just out from under the shadow of the Burnside Bridge, at 10 NW First Ave., you'll find:
9. Made in Oregon--This shop sells all things Oregon, from Pendleton blankets to local wines. This is a great place to pick up more gifts if you haven't already spent more than you should have at the Saturday Market.
From here, continue up NW First Avenue to the corner of NW Couch (pronounced Kooch) Street, where you'll find the:
10. Blagen Block--This is another excellent example of the ornate cast-iron facades that appeared on nearly all the buildings in this area at one time. Note the cast-iron figures of women wearing spiked crowns. They are reminiscent of the Statue of Liberty, which was erected 2 years before this building opened in 1888.
Across First Avenue, you'll see the covered sidewalk of the:
11. Norton House--Though this is not the original covered sidewalk, it is characteristic of Portland buildings from 100 years ago.
Walk west to Second Avenue, where at the southwest corner you'll see:
12. Erickson's Saloon Building--Back in the late 1800s this building at 9 NW Second Ave. housed the very popular Erickson's Saloon, with a 684-foot-long bar, card rooms, and a brothel.
From here, walk north on Second Avenue to the corner of Everett Street and turn left. At the corner of Everett Street and Third Avenue, you'll find the:
13. Portland Classical Chinese Garden--This is the largest classical Suzhou-style Chinese garden outside of China. With its tiled roofs, pond, bridges, and landscaping that conjures up images from Chinese scroll paintings, the garden is an urban oasis.
From here, walk back south on NW Third Avenue to the corner of Davis Street, turn right, and in 2 blocks, you'll see, on the northwest corner, the :
14. American Advertising Museum--Located at 211 NW Fifth Ave., this museum houses fun displays on the history of advertising. Inside, you can watch videos of some of the most unforgettable TV commercials of the past 50 years, follow the history of advertising in the United States, and get face to face with the likes of Aunt Jemima, Mr. Peanut, and Big Boy.
From here, walk back to Fourth Avenue, turn right, and ahead of you, at the corner of Fourth Avenue and Burnside Street, you'll see the:
15. Chinatown Gate--Since you're already in Chinatown, you'll have to cross to the opposite side of the brightly painted three-tiered gateway to appreciate its ornate design, including two huge flanking bronze Chinese lions.
From here, cross West Burnside Street, turn left on Ankeny, and walk 3 blocks back to the Skidmore Fountain to end the tour.
