* Pearl Bakery, 102 NW Ninth Ave. (tel. 503/827-0910), in the heart of the Soho-like Pearl district, is famous for its breads and European-style pastries. The gleaming bakery cafe is a also good place for such sandwiches as roasted eggplant and tomato pesto on crusty bread.

The * Rimsky-Korsakoffee House, 707 SE 12th Ave. (tel. 503/232-2640), a classic old-style coffeehouse (complete with mismatched chairs), has been Portland's favorite dessert hangout for more than a decade. Live classical music and great desserts keep patrons loyal (the mocha fudge cake is small but deadly). There's no sign on the old house, but you'll know this is the place as soon as you open the door. Open after 7pm.

If you're in southeast earlier in the day and find yourself craving a pastry, search out * Rosie's Boulangerie, 1406 SE Stark St. (tel. 503/232-4775), which is tucked away in a residential neighborhood. This little bakery produces excellent French-style pastries and breads. Don't miss the ravioli dolce or the lavender cookies.

Say the words Papa Haydn to a Portlander and you'll see a blissful smile appear. What is it about this little bistro that sends locals into accolades of superlatives? Just desserts. * Papa Haydn West, 701 NW 23rd Ave. (tel. 503/228-7317), is legendary for such desserts as lemon chiffon torte, raspberry gâteau, black velvet, and tiramisu. There's another location at 5829 SE Milwaukie Ave. (tel. 503/232-9440) in Sellwood.

Located in Ladd's Addition, an old neighborhood full of big trees and Craftsman-style bungalows, * Palio Dessert House, 1996 SE Ladd Ave. (tel. 503/232-9412), is a very relaxed place with a timeless European quality. Hang out, play chess, or listen to music while you enjoy a slice of Key lime pie or banana bread. To get there, take Hawthorne Boulevard east to the corner of 12th and Hawthorne, then go diagonally down Ladd Avenue.