Fun, Funky Fremont

Start: South end of Fremont Bridge near Ponti restaurant.

Finish: North end of Fremont Bridge.

Time: Approximately 2 hours, not including time spent dining.

Best Times: Sunday, during the Fremont Sunday Market.

Worst Times: Early morning or evening, when shops are closed.

The Fremont neighborhood definitely marches to the beat of a different drummer. Styling itself the Republic of Fremont and the center of the universe, this small, tight-knit community is the most eclectic neighborhood in the city. It has taken as its motto De Libertas Quirkas, which roughly translated means "free to be peculiar." Fremont residents have focused on art as a way to draw the community together, and in so doing, they've created a corner of the city where silliness reigns. At this crossroads business district, you'll find unusual outdoor art, the Fremont Sunday Market (a European-style flea market), several vintage clothing and furniture stores, a couple of pubs, and many other unexpected and unusual shops, galleries, and cafes. During the summer, outdoor movies are held on Saturday nights, and in June there's the wacky Solstice Parade, a countercultural promenade with giant puppets, wizards, fairies, naked bicyclists, and hippies of all ages.

Start your tour by finding a parking spot around the corner from Ponti restaurant at the south end of the:

1. Fremont Bridge

This is one of the busiest drawbridges in the United States and spans the Lake Washington Ship Canal. WELCOME TO THE CENTER OF THE UNIVERSE reads the sign at the south end of the bridge.

As you approach the north side of the bridge, glance up and, in the window of the bridge-tender's tower on the west side of the bridge, you'll see:

2. Rapunzel

This is a neon sculpture of the famous fairy-tale maiden with the prodigious mane. Her neon tresses cascade down the wall of the tower.

On your immediate right, the big modern building crowding up against the bridge is world headquarters for software giant:

3. Adobe

This is the Adobe of Acrobat, Illustrator, and Photoshop fame. Adobe's move into the neighborhood signaled a big change for Fremont. In the past few years, this neighborhood has changed considerably and is rapidly losing its appealing funkiness.

As you finally land in the Republic of Fremont, you will see, at the end of the bridge on the opposite side of the street from Rapunzel, Seattle's most beloved public sculpture:

4. Waiting for the Interurban

This piece features several people waiting for the trolley that no longer runs between Fremont and downtown Seattle. These statues are frequently dressed up by local residents, with costumes changing regularly.

Cross to the far side of 34th Street and walk east along this street past some of Fremont's interesting shops, including:

5. Portage Bay Goods

This store, at 706 N. 34th St. (tel. 206/547-5221), sells an eclectic array of things that "enrich the soul, support the community, and preserve the environment." Check out the notebooks made from old computer boards.

A few doors down, at 790 N. 34th St., you'll find:

6. History House

This neighborhood museum of history (tel. 206/675-8875) is complete with modern interactive exhibits and a beautiful artistic fence out front.

Turn left at History House and head uphill underneath the Aurora Bridge, which towers high above. At the top of the hill, you will see, lurking in the shadows beneath the bridge:

7. The Fremont Troll

This massive monster is in the process of crushing a real Volkswagen Beetle. No need to run in fear, though, as a wizard seems to have put a spell on the troll and turned it into cement.

Turn left at the troll and walk a block down North 35th Street to the best little cafe in the neighborhood.

Take a Break

Still Life in Fremont Coffeehouse, 709 N. 35th St. (tel. 206/547-9850), is a classic hippie hangout, with a swinging screen door and wood floors. Although oatmeal is a specialty, there are also soups, salads, sandwiches, pastries, and good espresso.

From Still Life in Fremont, it's only a few steps down the hill to the corner of North Fremont Avenue and Fremont Place. Take a left here to reach:

8. Frank and Dunya

This shop, at 3418 Fremont Ave. N (tel. 206/547-6760), sells colorful household decor, including switch plates, cups and saucers, mirrors, jewelry, art, rustic furniture, and little shrines. It's all very playful.

Go back up to the corner and cross North Fremont Avenue to the traffic island, where you'll find both the center of the center of the universe and Fremont's:

9. Directional marker

This old-fashioned signpost has arrows that point to such important locations as the center of the universe (straight down), the Fremont Troll, Rapunzel, Atlantis, and the North Pole.

From the signpost, continue west (away from the intersection) on Fremont Place, and in 1 block (at the corner of N. 36th St.), you will see a larger-than-life statue of:

10. Lenin

This 20-foot-tall statue in no way reflects the attitudes of the many very capitalistic merchants in the neighborhood.

After communing with Comrade Lenin, cross North 36th Street and walk a block down Evanston Avenue to:

11. The Fremont Rocket

Although there is speculation that this rocket was used by the aliens who founded Fremont, the truth is far stranger. You can read the entire history of the rocket on a map board below the rocket. (If you haven't already figured it out, the locals don't want you getting lost in their neighborhood, so they've put up maps all over to help you find your way from one famous Fremont locale to the next.)

From here, head back up to North 36th Street, and continue west for several blocks, and then turn left on Phinney Avenue North, at the foot of which you'll find:

12. Fremont's Jurassic Park

Don't worry, no velociraptors here -- just a pair of friendly topiary Apatosauruses (sort of like brontosaurs) donated to the neighborhood by the Pacific Science Center.

If it happens to be Sunday, you'll see crowds of people and vendors' stalls stretching back toward the Fremont Bridge from Jurassic Park. This is the:

13. Fremont Sunday Market

You never know what you might find at this combination flea market and produce market -- perhaps some locally made kilts, some organic strawberries, or maybe a rack of vintage Hawaiian shirts. Continue along this street, and you'll return to the Fremont Bridge.