Almost every grave has a story. Real-estate tycoon Jasper Newton Smith had a life-size statue of himself erected on his grave so he could watch the city's goings-on into eternity. (The sculptor originally gave Smith a tie, but Smith, who never wore one, refused to pay for the piece until the tie was chiseled off.) Dr. James Nissen, Oakland's first burial, feared being buried alive; his will stated that his jugular vein be severed prior to interment. And John Morgan Dye was a baby who died during the siege of Atlanta; his mother walked through the raging battle to the cemetery carrying the small corpse. The smallest grave, however, is that of "Tweet," a pet mockingbird buried in his family's lot. You'll also learn about graveyard symbolism on the tour: a lopped-tree-trunk marker indicates a life cut short or goals unachieved, rocks on a grave denote a life built on a solid foundation, and a shell means resurrection.

The cemetery is renowned not only for historical reasons, but as an outdoor "museum" of Gothic and classical-revival mausolea, bronze urns, stained glass, and Victorian statuary.

Atlanta residents also view Oakland's rolling terrain as parkland; dozens of people actually jog here every day, and picnickers are a common sight. Every October, there's a celebration to commemorate the cemetery's founding, with turn-of-the-century music, food, and storytelling. Though you can visit whenever the cemetery is open, try to come when you can take a guided tour. It's fascinating.