Ben Lloc (Stockholm; tel. 08/660-6060): The culinary rage of Stockholm is the domain of the capital's finest chef, Mathias Dahlgren, who turns out a Mediterranean cuisine. In the kitchen the chef marches to his own drummer, creating original, imaginative dishes that are influenced by other recipes but given a distinctly original touch at this temple of gastronomy.
Paul & Norbert (Stockholm; tel. 08/663-81-83): With only eight tables on the fashionable Strandvägen, this exclusive restaurant is set in a patrician residence dating from 1873. The most innovative restaurant in Stockholm, it's the creation of German owners Paul Beck and Norbert Lang. In winter, the Swedish game served here is without equal in the country -- just try the pigeon with Calvados sauce. And you can always count on something tempting and unusual; sautéed sweetbreads in nettle sauce, anyone?
Gripsholms Värdshus Restaurant (Mariefred; tel. 0159/34750): If you're seeking traditional Swedish food with French overtones, this is the best dining choice on the periphery of the capital. Local game dishes, including wild grouse, are featured in autumn, and marinated salmon with a mild mustard sauce is a year-round favorite. Tastings also can be arranged in the wine cellar.
Sjömagasinet (Gothenburg; tel. 031/775-59-20): By far the most intriguing and interesting restaurant in town, this is one of the finest places to go for seafood on the west coast of Sweden. Lying in the western suburb of Klippan, this converted 1775 warehouse serves an array of fresh fish whose flavor never diminishes regardless of the sauce or preparation. The fish and shellfish pot-au-feu with a chive-flavored crème fraîche is worth the trek.
Hipp (Malmö; tel. 040/94-70-30): Even the Danes are flocking across the new Øresund Bridge to dine at Malmö's "hip" new Hipp Restaurant. Its blend of Swedish and French cuisines is so successful that so far it's attracted everybody from Scandinavian prime ministers to Hollywood actors. In a Belle Epoque setting, menu items are the freshest in town, each platter a "creation" from the kitchen.
Anna Kock (Helsingborg; tel. 042/18-13-00): "Anna the Cook" was known all over this port city across the eastern coast from Denmark. She's gone now, but her relatives carry on, offering inexpensive Swedish food with style and flair. In this cozy enclave, feast on such dishes as filet of reindeer with lingonberry sauce or breast of wild duck with rhubarb chutney.
Kalmar Hamn Krog (Kalmar; tel. 0480/411-020): Since it was established in 1988 in this historic port city in southeastern Sweden, this international restaurant has quickly moved to the front of the line. Hailed as the best in town, it prepares reasonably priced food with flair, using only market-fresh ingredients deftly handled by a trained kitchen staff. The chefs borrow freely from the world's larders, using spices or ingredients from any country where their culinary imaginations wander.
Halltorps Gästgiveri (Borgholm; tel. 0485/850-00): On the historic Baltic island of Öland, this dining room serving Swedish food takes you back to the good old days. Here you can feast on the dishes beloved by your great-grandparents -- provided they came from Sweden. Herbs and vegetables come from suppliers who grow them right on the island, and the local fishers bring in their catch of the day. The place is charming, a bit stylish, and occupies one of the oldest manor houses on the island.
Stek Huset (Karlstad; tel. 054/56-00-80): Deep in the heart of the province of Värmland, made famous by the great international writer Selma Lagerlöf, you can dine on refined Swedish and international cuisine, some of the best in the area. Patrons arrive from miles around to enjoy the fare, all for a reasonable price. Fresh fish and steaks often are flambéed at the table with high drama.
Restaurant Kriti (Skellefteå; tel. 0910/77-95-35): Along the Bothnian coast of eastern Sweden, across from Finland, this restaurant in a port city of the far north is acclaimed for its Greek food. A taste of the Mediterranean cheers devoted local diners during the long, dark, Swedish winter nights of snow and ice. Dig into their stuffed grape leaves, souvlaki, or moussaka, and you'll think you're looking at the Acropolis instead of a wintry landscape. Their pizzas also are known as the best along the coast.
