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Trekking Routes: The Annapurna Circuit
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Though the Pokhara-to-Jomosom half of this trek is much more popular than the entire 18- to 20-day route, the Annapurna Circuit, a huge loop covering more than 150 miles, is still one of the more popular treks in Nepal. Offering amazing variations in topography, vegetation, and culture, the trek around the Annapurna massif is fascinating from beginning to end. Starting in the subtropical Pokhara Valley, the trek climbs to the arid valley of Manang, which is in the rain shadow of the Himalayas. Crossing over the Thorong La (pass) at 17,770 feet (5,416m), the route descends to Muktinath, a pilgrimage site sacred to both Buddhists and Hindus, where a sacred flame burns on bare rock (a natural gas leak). On either side of the pass are several fascinating villages built of flat-roofed mud-and-stone houses and populated by people akin to Tibetans. These villages offer anyone who has never been to Tibet a chance to see what village life is like across the border. Descending from Jomosom, the trail passes through villages inhabited by various ethnic groups, giving the trekker a chance to observe different Nepali lifestyles. In and near Tatopani, there are hot springs that can provide a welcome hot bath after 2 weeks on the trail. Above Tatopani at Poon Hill, there is one last opportunity for great mountain views, though the views from the Manang Valley and from around Jomosom are far more spectacular.
Much of this trek's popularity is due to the fact that there are plenty of lodges along the entire route, which makes carrying a tent and food unnecessary. Lodges vary from bamboo-walled huts to three-story stone chalets. The food available on this trek is also quite good, especially on the Jomosom side. Hardly a day goes by without apple pie. The major drawbacks of the trek are, of course, the crowds of trekkers and the Thorong La. Many people have died trying to cross this high pass. You must be watchful for signs of altitude sickness in yourself and your companions, porters, and guides. If you become ill, do not attempt to cross the pass, and descend immediately to a lower elevation.
During the main trekking season, thousands of trekkers take to the trail here, and you are likely to see as many trekkers as Nepalis. If you're expecting to be the only foreigner on the trail, this is not the trek for you. You can, however, avoid some of the crowds by not doing this trek in October or November. The large number of trekkers descending on the region has brought about some changes that detract from the trekking experience. Lodges along the Jomosom trek have lost much of their unique Nepali character; many now even have satellite TVs. So if you're expecting an escape from civilization, these modern "conveniences" may be an unwelcome surprise.
There are several ways to start this trek. Most people take a bus to Dumre, from either Kathmandu (6 hr.) or Pokhara (2 hr.), and then take a truck to Besi Sahar. I don't recommend this route, because the trucks and buses that operate between Dumre and Besi Sahar are notorious for breaking down and crashing. These trucks take at least 4 hours and usually much longer. If you start the day from Pokhara (2,898 ft.; 884m), you can usually be in Besi Sahar by nightfall, but if you start from Kathmandu, you will probably have to spend the night in Dumre (not a pleasant prospect).
The route I describe below lets you avoid the long bus ride to Besi Sahar and instead start with a short bus or taxi ride from Pokhara to Begnas Lake. This route takes a day or two longer and joins the main route about 1 1/2 & hours' walk up the valley from Besi Sahar.
If you are unable to cross the Thorong La, you can fly back to Pokhara from Hongde (below Manang). Royal Nepal Airlines flies here 5 days a week, and airfare is $50 each way. If you only wanted to hike the Manang side of the Annapurna Circuit, you could plan to fly out of this airstrip. Or you could fly in and then hike out, but the airstrip is above 10,000 feet, which makes your risk of developing altitude sickness quite high.
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