Trekking Routes: Solu-Khumbu & the Everest Region Treks

Lukla to Everest Base Camp & Kala Pattar: Days 1-6

Number of Days: 15. Total Elevation Gain: 11,159-12,128 ft. (3,401-3,697m). Total Elevation Loss: 9,989-10,058 ft. (3,014-3,066m). As of 1998, helicopters other than genuine charters had been prohibited at Lukla. In the years previous to this prohibition, choppers had become the favored means of getting to Lukla because they were able to fly in worse weather than planes could. With numerous helicopter companies operating out of Kathmandu, expect the prohibition to be lifted in upcoming years, and if it is, helicopters are the better way to get here. Currently, you'll have to fly in a fixed-wing plane with Royal Nepal Airlines (RNAC), Lumbini Airways, or Yeti Airways. Airfare is $83 each way. The steeply angled airstrip at Lukla provides one of the most hair-raising landings in the world, a memorable beginning to a trek. Day 1: Kathmandu to Lukla Because of the airstrip and the frequent passenger backups caused by bad weather, Lukla (9,200 ft.; 2,804m) is a very lively place. There are dozens of lodges, hotels, teahouses, and shops catering to the thousands of trekkers who pass through here annually. Despite the many accommodations, Lukla can be crowded. Because the altitude here is about as high as you should fly into if you want to avoid suffering from altitude sickness, it is advisable to spend the rest of the day here acclimatizing. The best way to acclimatize is to do a bit of walking, preferably above the village. If you want to hire a guide, a porter, or both, ask at your lodge. Avoid dealing with any touts that might approach you as you get off the plane. The Himalaya Lodge just above the airstrip is popular. However, if you aren't quite ready to give up private bathrooms, you could stay at the very pricey Sagarmatha Resort. Day 2: Lukla to Jorsale Lukla to Chapling: 45 minutes; Chapling to Ghat: 45 minutes; Ghat to Phakding: 1 hour; Phakding to Benkar: 1 1/4 & hours; Benkar to Mondzo: 1 hour; Mondzo to Jorsale: 1 hour. Eleva-tion Gain: 700 ft. (213m). Elevation Loss: 800 ft. (244m). The trail from Lukla begins at the far end of the village from the airstrip and leads gradually downhill to Chapling (8,767 ft.; 2,672m). This section of the trail is mostly without shade, so it's a good idea to start while it's still cool. As in Lukla, there are views down into the valley of the Dudh Kosi. Several hundred feet below, you can see the village of Chaunrikarka. Shortly before reaching Chapling, the trail up from Jiri joins the trail from Lukla. Beyond Chapling, the trail crosses a tributary stream and descends to Ghat. Keep to the east bank, climbing, descending, and climbing again before reaching Phakding (8,600 ft.; 2,621m). Cross over the Dudh Kosi to the west bank and continue north to the village of Benkar (8,850 ft.; 2,697m). Beyond Benkar, you cross back to the east bank of the river and climb to Chumoa. The trail continues climbing, then descends to a stream and climbs to Mondzo (9,300 ft.; 2,835m). There are several lodges in each of these villages, but I suggest moving on to Jorsale. Sagarmatha National Park has its entrance here in Mondzo, and you will have to show your park permit (purchased in Kathmandu) and sign the register. Because the trek now leads through a national park, all trekking groups are prohibited from cooking with firewood; consequently, kerosene must be carried. There is a kerosene depot in Namche Bazaar and Lukla, and containers for kerosene can also be purchased. This rule does not, however, apply to lodges catering to trekkers. Many lodges still use wood to cook and heat water for showers. Though a few lodges have begun using kerosene (and even propane) stoves, these are still the exception. If you ask a few lodge owners whether they use kerosene and if you express an interest in staying at a lodge that does use kerosene, maybe things will begin to change. Using kerosene may add a little bit to the cost of a meal, but saving the forests of the Himalayas is well worth the expense. Beyond the park entrance, the trail descends a stone stairway, crosses back to the west bank of the river, and continues to Jorsale (9,100 ft.; 2,774m). There are quite a few lodges here, and I suggest staying for the night. Though it is possible to reach Namche Bazaar on the same day, it is still a very steep 3-hour hike away. It is better to make this climb in the morning when you are rested and full of energy. You will probably encounter yak caravans all along the trail from Lukla. These caravans are a constant source of danger. Yaks can be bad tempered, so always be prepared for a nudge from one. Keep to the uphill side when passing these slow-moving beasts to avoid being pushed or accidentally knocked off the trail. Luckily, this steep section of trail is not very long. Day 3: Jorsale to Namche Bazaar Jorsale to Namche Bazaar: 2 1/2 & to 3 hours. Elevation Gain: 2,200 ft. (671m). From Jorsale, the trail crosses the river on the long suspension bridge and then fol-lows a flat trail upriver for 20 minutes or so. The path then climbs above the valley floor to one of the highest suspension bridges I have ever seen in Nepal. From there the trail continues climbing steeply through the forest to a teahouse with a partially obscured view of Mount Everest. This is a steep climb, and the teahouse is a welcome resting spot. Beyond the teahouse, take the right fork, which leads into Namche Bazaar through an area that is used as a market on Saturdays. In addition to this short day of hiking, you'll need to spend at least 1 full day (preferably 2) acclimatizing in Namche Bazaar before continuing to higher elevations. Find a lodge and spend the afternoon explor-ing the village or relaxing in the sun. Namche Bazaar (11,300 ft.; 3,444m) is the largest village and the administrative center of the Khumbu region. Situated in a horseshoe-shaped valley high above the Bhote Kosi and surrounded by steep hills, it faces the impressive north face of Kwangde peak (20,285 ft.; 6,183m). There are a police checkpoint, a bank where it is possible to change money, and a post office here. A small hydroelectric project provides electricity at night. There are also dozens of lodges and hotels here. The Khumbu Lodge and the Himalayan Lodge are among the best in town. The village shops sell an amazing variety of imported foods-the leftovers of international mountaineering expeditions. You can also buy hand-knitted wool sweaters, socks, and gloves and rent down jackets and sleeping bags. The Sagarmatha National Park headquarters and visitor center are above the police checkpoint on the hill to the east of the village. This hill has a spectacular view up the valley to Mount Everest and all its surrounding peaks. Sunrises and sunsets from this ridge are worth all the grueling days it takes to get here. Days 4 & 5: Altitude Acclimatization Days Day Hikes from Namche bazaar--The best way to acclimatize is to hike to higher elevation and then return to Namche Bazaar for the night. There are a few day hikes (and overnighters) possible from Namche Bazaar. Shyangboche Airstrip Area  One of the most interesting day hikes is the climb up the hill north of town to the Shyangboche airstrip area. From the east end of this little-used airstrip, a trail leads to the Hotel Everest View, a deluxe hotel built by the Japanese in the 1970s. The long, low stone and glass building is so incredibly out of place in this remote landscape that it's fascinating. Stop by for a very expensive pot of tea, and enjoy the view of Everest from the dining room or terrace. For more information on the hotel, contact * Hotel Everest View, Durbar Marg (P.O. Box 1694), Kathmandu (tel. 977/1-224854; fax 977/1-227289). Rates are around $320 per night for a double (with meals included). Thami--You start this day hike by walking west toward the village of Thami. In Thamo, 1 1/2 & hours out of Namche Bazaar, climb the steep slope to a small gompa built by the English-speaking lama who helped found Kopan monastery in Boudha. This gompa is frequently used as a retreat for Western Buddhists who come from all over the world to get away from it all. The Sherpa caretakers of the gompa are always happy to have guests, and even the Westerners staying here may be willing to talk with you about Buddhism if you are interested. From Thamo, continue up the valley to Thami, which you should reach in about 2 hours. After exploring Thami, you can visit the monastery outside of the village before heading back to Namche Bazaar. Day 6: Namche Bazaar to Tengboche Namche Bazaar to Sanassa: 1 hour; Sanassa to Phunki Tenga: 1 hour; Phunki Tenga to Tengboche: 2 hours. Elevation Gain: 2,519ft. (768m). Elevation Loss: 1,140ft. (347m). The route to Kala Pattar is by far the most popular trail originating in Namche Bazaar. If this is the route you intend to follow, climb the hill to the park headquarters, where the trail levels off. The Dudh Kosi is far below, and the view from here is spectacular, with Thamserku (21,675 ft.; 6,607m) directly across the valley, Kwangde to the south across the Bhote Kosi valley, and Everest (29,028 ft.; 8,848m), Nuptse (25,845 ft.; 7,878m), Ama Dablam (22,488 ft.; 6,854m), Cholotse (21,125 ft.; 6,439m), and Khumbila (18,900 ft.; 5,761m) all ahead of you up the valley. Keep your eyes open for pheasants along this stretch of trail. The wide path descends slowly through steep pastures. Within 1 1/4 & hours you pass Sanassa and the trail up to Khumjung, a large Sherpa village in a desolate valley. Continue descending on the main trail, entering a forest, to reach the Dudh Kosi and the village of Phunki Tenga (10,660 ft.; 3,249m) with its water-driven mills and prayer wheels. There are a few lodges here. Cross the river and climb steeply through a dense forest. Tengboche (12,679 ft.; 3,865m), the largest monastery in Khumbu, perches on the saddle of a ridge and commands an outstanding panorama with peaks in every direction. The monastery is especially beautiful with Ama Dablam rising up behind it. This is one of the most memorable sights anywhere in Nepal. Tengboche monastery is the site of the annual Mani Rimdu festival, held at the November full moon. During the fes-tival, monks wearing masks and colorful costumes act out traditional dances in the courtyard of the monastery. It is an amazing sight, though it is always very crowded with trekkers. Stay at the excellent Tengboche Trekkers Lodge or the Gompa Lodge, which is operated by Tengboche's monks. If you are camping, you will be asked to pay a small charge for pitching your tent on monastery land. While in Tengboche, you can visit the Sherpa Cultural Center, a small museum with informative displays about the Sherpa people. It's in a building behind the gompa. Because the monastery has banned hunting in the vicinity, you may see pheasants, musk deer, Himalayan tahr (mountain goats), or jungle cats along the nearby trails.

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