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Trekking Routes: Solu-Khumbu & the Everest Region Treks
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Day 1: Kathmandu to Jiri
Jiri (6,250 ft.; 1,905m), the trailhead for hiking into the Everest region, is an unappealing little town with a wide main street lined with shops, teahouses, and lodges. It is an 8- to 12-hour bus ride from Kathmandu to Jiri, depending on whether you get on the express bus. Buses leave from the Gongabu Bus Park on Ring Road north of Thamel, and the fare is Rs143 ($2.15). This bus is usually so crowded that many people ride on the roof, and pickpocketing and theft of, or from, backpacks have become all too common. Take all possible precautions and never let your backpack out of your sight. Your best bet is to buy two tickets and place your backpack in the seat next to you. Also, landslides during the monsoon often wash out sections of the road, adding hours to the journey and making it a real adventure. You can also hire a taxi to drive you to Jiri for around Rs6,000 ($90.90).
The best lodges in Jiri are the Hotel Gaurihimal, Cherdung Lodge, and the Hotel Jirel Gabila.
Day 2: Jiri to Shivalaya
Jiri to Shivalaya: 3 1/2 & hours. INITIAL Elevation Gain: 1,625 ft. (495m). Elevation Loss: 1,975 ft. (602m).
The trail starts at the eastern end of the main road into Jiri and begins ascending immediately. It is about 1 1/2 & hours through a scrubby rhododendron forest to the crest of this first ridge (7,875 ft.; 2,400m). From this ridge, which is topped by a small cairn, the trail drops quickly to a bridge over the Yelung Khola. After crossing this first small river, the trail crosses the larger Khimti Khola and enters the village of Shivalaya (5,900 ft.; 1,798m). If you'd rather skip this first steep climb, there is an alternative trail that follows the Jiri Khola downstream to the confluence with the Khimti Khola. The trail then heads up the Khimti Khola, through the village of Those, to Shivalaya. A road is being built to a hydroelectric project on the Khimti Khola, and when this road is completed, the start of this trek may change a bit.
Although it is possible to continue from Shivalaya, you won't reach the next village of any size, Bhandar, for 5 1/2 & hours, which makes for a grueling first day.
Day 3: Shivalaya to Bhandar
Shivalaya to Sangbadanda: 2 hours; Sangbadanda to Deorali Pass: 2 hours; Deorali Pass to Bhandar: 1 hour. Elevation Gain: 3,000 ft. (914m). Elevation Loss: 1,700 ft. (518m).
From Shivalaya, the trail begins climbing again, this time quite steeply. Sangbadanda (7,200 ft.; 2,195m) is reached in about 2 hours. Here the trail forks. Take the right fork, which goes through the small village of Kasourbas; you'll reach Deorali Pass (8,900 ft.; 2,713m) in about 2 hours. At first the trail climbs gradually, but after leveling off for a while, it climbs steeply through a forest to Deorali Pass. There are several lodges at this windy pass, which makes a good lunch stop. Since it is only another hour downhill to Bhandar, you might want to consider making a side trip up to the cheese factory at Thodung, which is another 1 1/2 & hours and 1,250 feet (381m) above the pass. Take the trail leading north up the ridge. There are also several large mani walls at this pass, an indication that you are now in Sherpa country. The trail descends the far side of this ridge, cutting across the ridge toward the village of Bhandar, which can be seen from the pass. Just below the pass, the trail forks. Take the left fork and continue descending steadily toward Bhandar.
Bhandar (7,200 ft.; 2,195m) is a picturesque Sherpa village in a wide valley. The path, almost a road, passes two large chortens before entering the village itself. A chorten is a Buddhist shrine similar to the huge stupas in Kathmandu. It incorporates the same elements and symbols as a stupa, only on a much smaller scale. Beside the chortens, there's a gompa, which you are welcome to visit if it's unlocked when you pass by. In Bhandar, there are several lodges, which will be welcomed after this long and exhausting day. Try the Ang Dawa Lodge, which makes its own pasta.
Day 4: Bhandar to Sete
Bhandar to Kenja: 3 hours; Kenja to Sete: 3 hours. Elevation Gain: 2,020 ft. (616m). Eleva-tion Loss: 3,261 ft. (944m).
From Bhandar, the trail continues across the wide valley and enters a dark and damp forest. The trail then drops steeply through a luxuriant forest full of ferns and mosses. Long ribbons of water cascade down the opposite wall of the narrow valley the trail passes through. At the bottom of this valley, the trail crosses to the opposite side of the stream and heads north up the valley of the Likhu Khola, a much larger river. Continue up the west bank of the Likhu Khola to the bridge (5,180 ft.; 1,579m), and cross to the east bank. The trail continues on this bank to the village of Kenja (5,350 ft.; 1,631m), where there are several lodges. You should eat a big lunch with lots of carbohydrates before continuing the day's trek. If you have any mending to be done, local tailors, who set up their hand-cranked sewing machines along the trail, will fix you right up.
From Kenja it is a long, steady, and steep climb up to the Lamjura Pass. Luckily, you reach the village of Sete (8,441 ft.; 2,573m), which is below the pass, in about 3 hours, which makes it a good place to stop for the night. There are several lodges in Sete and a good view down into the valley of the Kenja Khola. Sunsets can be spectacular here even though you can't see any snow-clad peaks.
Day 5: Sete to Junbesi
Sete to teahouses: 2 hours; teahouses to Lamjura Pass: 2 hours; Lamjura Pass to Tragdobuck: 2 hours; Tragdobuck to Junbesi: 1 hour. Elevation Gain: 3,139 ft. (957m). Elevation Loss: 2,805 ft. (855m).
Before leaving Sete, be sure to fill all your water bottles. Little, if any, water is available between here and the far side of the Lamjura Pass. From Sete, the trail continues climbing steadily toward the pass. At first you walk through an oak forest, but as you gain more elevation, the vegetation changes to fir trees and eventually to rhododendron. About 2 hours above Sete, there are teahouses where you should have lunch. At a mani wall 2 1/2 & to 3 hours from Sete, take the left fork. You will reach the Lamjura Pass (11,580 ft.; 3,530m) about 4 hours after leaving Sete. The forests leading up to this pass are quite magical. The trunks of the rhododendrons below the pass are often covered with moss almost a foot thick, which gives you some idea of how often this pass is covered with clouds. At the pass itself there is an amazing jumble of sticks and stones that have been assembled into several cairns and festooned with prayer flags and marigolds. These are offerings left by travelers as they've crossed this spot that is just a bit closer to the gods.
From the pass it is a steep and slippery descent through a damp forest. However, as the trail leaves the forest, it becomes much less steep and enters a green pasture crisscrossed with wooden fences. The trail leaves the forest and passes through hills covered with meadows. Before reaching the village of Tragdobuck (9,400 ft.; 2,865m), the trail passes under an impressive outcropping of rock. In Tragdobuck there are two huge boulders, both of which have been carved with Buddhist prayers. The trail continues across the meadows until it rounds a notch in the ridge and reveals the village of Junbesi ahead and below. The snow-covered mountain you see above Junbesi is Numbur (22,825 ft.; 6,957m). Its Sherpa name means God of Solu (Solu, which is inhabited by Sherpas, is the lower part of the region known as Solu Khumbu).
From the notch it is about an hour to Junbesi (8,775 ft.; 2,675m), a very attractive Sherpa village, where you will find a monastery above the village on the trail from Tragdobuck and an older monastery in the middle of town. There are several large lodges in Junbesi (some even have satellite TV!), so you might want to check them all out before making a choice. The Junbesi Guest House is popular, and the Ang Chopa Lodge even has a "penthouse" room complete with skylights. You'll also find a good bakery in Junbesi.
Day 6: Junbesi to Manidingma
Junbesi to Sallung: 2 1/2 & hours; Sallung to Ringmo: 2 hours; Ringmo to Tragsindho Pass: 1 hour; Tragsindho Pass to Tragsindho: 20 minutes; Tragsindho to Manidingma: 1 1/2 & hours. Elevation Gain: 2,600 ft. (793m). Elevation Loss: 3,775 ft. (1,150m).
To reach the onward trail, head south out of Junbesi past several stone chortens. Just after crossing the river on a wooden bridge, the trail forks. The right fork goes to Phaphlu, which has a hospital and an airstrip; the left fork continues toward Khumbu and the Everest region. This trail climbs through different types of forest. Near the top of the ridge, the forest gives way to open pastures, and at the crest (10,000 ft.; 3,048m) you get your first glimpse of Everest (called Sagarmatha by the Nepalis and Chomolungma by the Tibetans). The trail then descends through forest, again heading northeast up a wide valley. In 2 hours you reach Sallung (9,750 ft.; 2,972m), where there are several lodges. The trail continues descending to the Beni Khola (8,700 ft.; 2,652m), crosses the river, and then climbs to the village of Ringmo (9,200 ft.; 2,804m). Be sure to stop here for apple pie or apple cider from the large orchard.
An alternative route from Junbesi to Ringmo leads 1 1/2 & hours up the valley from Junbesi to the large Thubten Chholing Gompa, which is home to nearly 200 Buddhist monks and nuns. This monastery is well worth a visit. From here, it's possible to take a little-used trail up and over the ridge to the east of the monastery, joining the main trail from Junbesi just before the village of Ringmo. It should take 3 or 4 hours to cross this way.
At Ringmo, the trail widens, but it is still a steep climb up to Tragsindho Pass (10,075 ft.; 3,071m), which is marked by a large chorten, mani walls, prayer flags, and several lodges.
Descending from the pass, you reach the village of Tragsindho in about 20 minutes. There are more lodges and a large Buddhist monastery here. It is an hour's descent through lush forest alive with birds to the village of Manidingma (7,600 ft.; 2,316m), also known as Nuntala, which has quite a few lodges.
Day 7: Manidingma to Kharte
Manidingma to Dudh Kosi: & 1/2 & hour; Dudh Kosi to Jubing: 1 hour; Jubing to Khari Khola: 2 hours; Khari Khola to Kharte: 1 1/2 & hours. Elevation Gain: 2,635 ft. (803m). Elevation Loss: 2,700 ft. (823m).
Continue descending through forests to the valley of the Dudh Kosi (Milk River), which gets its name from the pale blue color of its water and from its many rapids. This large river flows south from the glaciers of Khumbu. Cross the river on a suspension bridge (4,900 ft.; 1,494m) and head north to the village of Jubing. The trail passes through the terraced fields surrounding this village. Jubing is inhabited by people of the Rai ethnic group, who are found primarily in eastern Nepal. You may notice that the houses look different from Sherpa homes and are often decorated with garlands of marigolds. The trail continues north up the valley of the Dudh Kosi to the village of Khari Khola. There are several good lodges here, so if you are ready for an afternoon of rest, make this a short day. If you are full of energy and want to continue, walk through Khari Khola, cross the bridge, and begin climbing to the villages of Bupsa and Kharte (7,535 ft.; 2,300m), which you can see from Khari Khola. There are several large lodges in Bupsa and a few smaller ones in Kharte.
Day 8: Kharte to Chaunrikarka
Kharte to Puiyan: 2 hours; Puiyan to Surkhe: 2 1/2 & hours; Surkhe to Chaunrikarka: 2 hours. Elevation Gain: 2,915 ft. (898m). Elevation Loss: 1,750 ft. (533m).
From Kharte, continue climbing through forest with the river far below you in a steep-walled valley. The trail reaches the top of a ridge at about 10,000 feet (3,048m) be-fore descending through the canyon of a tributary. Use extreme caution on the trail through this canyon. It is often icy and at times is very narrow with a steep drop-off. At the head of the canyon, you cross a landslide area that can be unstable in the first weeks after the end of the monsoon. After crossing this stream, it is a short walk with a gentle slope to Puiyan (9,300 ft.; 2,835m), where you'll find numerous lodges. The trail continues climbing to another ridge (9,650 ft.; 2,941m) beyond which it is possible to see Lukla and its airstrip. You may even get to see a plane make the hair-raising landing on this postage-stamp field.
The trail descends through shady forest to another tributary of the Dudh Kosi. In the little valley beside this stream is the village of Surkhe, which has a couple of lodges. The trail climbs steeply out of Surkhe to a junction with a trail to Lukla. If you are hoping to fly back to Kathmandu, it is worthwhile to hike up to Lukla and put your name on the waiting list for the day you want to return. Remember, getting on a flight out of Lukla can take days of waiting, so leave yourself plenty of time. After passing this junction, the trail continues climbing steeply on a path blasted out of the mountainside. The trail then crosses a rocky pasture strewn with giant boulders, several of which have been turned into finished-looking caves. These caves are used by porters as resting and camping spots on their way to the Saturday market in Namche Bazaar. Chaunrikarka (8,700 ft.; 2,652m) is shortly beyond these caves. There are several lodges here.
Day 9: Chaunrikarka to Jorsale
Chaunrikarka to Chapling: 45 minutes. Elevation Gain: 400 ft. (122m).
Leaving Chaunrikarka, you pass several mani walls and a large chorten, and the trail passes through attractive fields. At the top of a low ridge, this trail joins with the trail from Lukla. Be prepared to suddenly find yourself in the company of dozens and possibly hundreds of trekkers. The trail up to Namche Bazaar from here becomes a human highway, with trekkers and porters often blocking the trail as they stop to rest. The village of Chapling is just below this ridge.
Start with Day 2 of the "Lukla to Everest Base Camp Kala Pattar Route" description above to continue this trek onward toward Namche Bazaar. You should be able to reach Mondzo or Jorsale on this day.
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