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Trekking Routes: The Annapurna Circuit
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Day 1: Pokhara to Karputar
Pokhara to Sisuwa: 1 hour; Sisuwa to Sakra Bhanjyang: 3 hours; Sakra Bhanjyang to Karputar: 2 hours. Elevation Loss: 1,298 ft. (396m) from Sisuwa to Karputar.
The main advantages of following this route are that you spend only 1 hour on a bus (or even less in a taxi) before beginning your trek, and you avoid the hair-raising truck/bus ride from Dumre to Besi Sahar. From the main bus park in Pokhara, take a bus to the village of Sisuwa between Begnas Tal and Rupa Tal, two lakes to the east of Pokhara. Sisuwa is the end of the line, and the bus usually stops right at the beginning of the trail, which leads uphill from the collection of shops at the east end of the village. The trail climbs moderately up a ridge, from the top of which there are views of both Rupa Tal and Begnas Tal, with the Annapurna Himal reflected in the waters of Begnas Tal.
The trail descends the ridge at the far end of Rupa Tal and heads up the terraced river valley to the village of Tarbensi, where there is a teahouse. From Tarbensi, the trail ascends gradually to the east through a narrow, rocky valley and then climbs steeply and steadily through forest to a pass at Sakra Bhanjyang, where there are more teahouses. The trail then descends very steeply, still in forest, on an eroded trail paved with stone steps. Leaving the forest, you continue descending gradually across a rocky, dry riverbed, eventually crossing the shallow river itself. The trail then enters the forest again and descends through the beautiful Achari Bhanjyang, a village of stucco and thatch houses that are painted orange and white, with black trim. Shady pastures surrounding the village give it a very idyllic atmosphere. After reaching the valley floor, the trail cuts across rice paddies to Bagwa Bazaar and a long suspension bridge across the Madi Khola. Just across this bridge, the trail enters the village of Karputar (1,600 ft.; 488m), which is shaded by several large pipal trees. Karputar has a large stone lodge just before the suspension bridge and a couple of very basic teahouses right in town.
Day 2: Karputar to Baglungpani
Karputar to Phedi: 3 hours; Phedi to Nalma: 1 1/2 & hours; Nalma to Baglungpani: 3 hours. Elevation Gain: 3,765 ft. (1,132m).
Get an early start because it is a long day to Baglungpani. From Karputar, head northeast up the wide valley of the Midim Khola to Laxmi Bazaar. From Laxmi Bazaar, the trail leads to Shyauli Bazaar, where there are a few teahouses. The valley here is below 1,600 feet (488m), which makes it lower and hotter than Pokhara. Be prepared to sweat profusely all day. Beyond Shyauli Bazaar, the trail enters the woods again and winds up and down the steep walls of the narrowing valley. At times the trail is very steep. In the dry season, when the river is low, it is possible to walk up the riverbed. On the high route, you will cross a suspension bridge and come to a teahouse perched high above the valley floor. If you have walked up the riverbed, you must climb to the teahouse when you see the suspension bridge. This teahouse is called Phedi, which means "foot of the hill." From here it is nearly 4,000 feet (1,219m) up to Baglungpani.
From the teahouse, you begin climbing in earnest up a steep forest trail. When you finally reach the ridge crest, the trail becomes much less steep and crosses terraced fields to the village of Nalma. This picturesque Gurung village is scattered along the crest of the ridge and has several teahouses. If you're tired and don't feel like walking the remaining 3 hours to Baglungpani, consider staying here for the night. From Nalma, the trail climbs steeply up a stone stairway. This ridge trail climbs and levels off three times before descending through a damp forest and then ascending to Baglungpani (5,315 ft.; 1,620m), a small village on a saddle. There are several small lodges here. Sunsets and sunrises from Baglungpani are stunning.
Day 3: Baglungpani to Ngatti
Baglungpani to Lama Gaon: 1 1/2 & hours; Lama Gaon to Khudi: 1 hour; Khudi to Bhul Bhule: 1 hour; Bhul Bhule to Ngatti: 1 hour. Elevation Gain: 585 ft. (178m). Elevation Loss: 3,015 ft. (919m).
The trail descends steeply from Baglungpani through forests full of birds. Slightly more than halfway to the valley floor, you come to the village of Samrong. From here the trail descends toward the river with Lama Gaon village on both sides. At the far end of the suspension bridge across the river, the trail drops down a large boulder and continues east along the riverbank. The trail then angles away from the river, crosses through terraced fields, and passes Sera village. Beyond Sera, you enter the wide valley of the Marsyangdi River, which you can see below you. The trail continues descending gradually until you come to the Khudi Khola, a tributary of the Marsyangdi on the far side of which is the village of Khudi (2,300 ft.; 701m). There are several lodges here, and the road through Besi Sahar is being extended to this point as well. From Khudi you have a view up the Marsyangdi valley to Ngadi Chuli (25,820 ft.; 7,870m) and Manaslu (26,755 ft.; 8,155m). The trail continues up the west bank of the Marsyangdi, passing Khudi's school in about 10 minutes. You pass through two small villages and then cross the Marsyangdi on a suspension bridge. On the east bank is Bhulbhule (2,700 ft.; 823m). The trail continues up the east bank past an impressive waterfall and through a wide expanse of terraced fields to Ngatti (2,885 ft.; 880m). There are several lodges in both Ngatti and Bhulbhule.
Day 4: Ngatti to Jagat
Ngatti to Bahudanda: 2 hours; Bahudanda to Syange: 2 hours; Syange to Jagat: 1 1/2 & hours. Elevation Gain: 1,920 ft. (585m). Elevation Loss:575 ft. (175m).
The path crosses a stream at the edge of Ngatti and continues across terraced fields before crossing the Ngatti Khola, a major tributary of the Marsyangdi. After crossing the bridge, the trail winds around a hill before starting a steady climb up through the village of Lampata. Beyond Lampata, the trail becomes steeper and very dusty before finally reaching Bahudanda (4,300 ft.; 1,311m) at the top of the hill. There are several lodges here, as well as a police checkpoint. After the hot, sweaty climb up to the top, the shade of Bahudanda is a welcome spot for a rest.
The trail out of the village passes a bamboo grove before descending rapidly on an eroded path worn into soft rock (muddy in the fall, dusty in the winter). After 15 minutes the trail levels off, crosses a stream, and contours through terraces. The valley narrows above Bahudanda, and its walls become very steep. Down below you can see the milky, turquoise waters of the Marsyangdi, which is fed by the glaciers of the Annapurna Himal. The trail crosses a steep mountainside, where it is actually cut into the rock, and then enters Kanigaon (3,870 ft.; 1,180m). The trail then winds along the steep valley walls before descending rapidly to a suspension bridge over the Marsy-angdi. On the far side of the bridge, wedged between the river and a cliff, is the narrow village of Syange (3,725 ft.; 1,135m). There are several lodges here.
From Syange the trail climbs toward Jagat on the steep walls of the now-very-narrow canyon. Much of this trail is carved out of cliff walls with steep drop-offs. In places, water and stone stairs make the trail even more nerve-racking. Eventually, the trail be-gins to descend again, almost as steeply as it climbed. Jagat (4,230 ft.; 1,289m), with huge boulders strewn about its environs and its dark houses built of rock, looks like a Stone Age village. The village's precarious perch on a jutting cliff high above the river only adds to the prehistoric atmosphere. There is a large lodge on the far side of the village, and a couple of smaller, less-appealing ones right in the middle of the village.
Day 5: Jagat to Dharapani
Jagat to Chamje: 1 1/4 & hours; Chamje to Tal: 2 hours; Tal to Dharapani: 2 hours. Elevation Gain: 2,064 ft. (631m).
The trail descends steeply from Jagat almost to the river before ascending an equally steep path. The opposite bank is almost a sheer cliff, with several long ribbon-like waterfalls streaming down its face. After this next climb, the trail levels off before reaching Chamje (4,700 ft.; 1,433m). Chamje, like Jagat, is situated precariously high above the river on a steep mountainside. There are several lodges here. After Chamje the trail descends again and crosses the Marsyangdi on a long suspension bridge (4,625 ft.; 1,410m). Again the trail climbs on a very steep path with drop-offs. You'll pass through the village of Sattare and continue climbing steeply. Looking down into the valley, you'll see that the river is no longer visible, though it can still be heard. Above Sattare, the river flows under the giant boulders of a landslide that once blocked the valley and formed a lake.
The Nepali word for lake is tal, which not coincidentally is the name of the village you soon come to on the wide, flat valley that was once the lake bed. It is a beautiful sight as you top a hill and see the village of Tal and the valley below you. Adding to the beauty of the setting are waters that stream down the cliffs above the wide, flat plain. It is an easy walk into the village, which consists of colorfully painted wooden houses, many of which have balconies. There are several lodges here. As you leave the village, you pass by a beautiful waterfall with a large white chorten and prayer flags at its base. If you're lucky, you might even see a rainbow in the waterfall.
Beyond Tal, the trail continues up the wide, flat valley, skirts a cliff, and then crosses over to the west bank of the Marsyangdi. Once across the river, the trail begins to climb again quite steeply in places and is often blasted out of rock. The trail crosses the Marsyangdi again at Kharte. Just below Dharapani, you cross back over the river on a suspension bridge. On the west bank once again, you soon come to Dharapani (6,294 ft.; 1,920m), a dark and rather dismal village overlooking the confluence of the Dudh Khola and the Marsyangdi. There are several lodges here, as well as a police checkpoint. Thonje, about 10 minutes below Dharapani and across a bridge, is well worth a visit. It's a fascinating little village built almost entirely of stone. You'll see many mani walls and chortens here.
Day 6: Dharapani to Chame
Dharapani to Bagarchap: 30 minutes; Bagarchap to Dhanagyu: 1 1/2 & hours; Dhanagyu to Koto: 3 hours; Kodo to Chame: 30 minutes. Elevation Gain: 2,606 ft. (793m).
At Dharapani, the Marsyangdi, which has been flowing from the north, makes a wide bend to the west. As you round this bend, you'll see Annapurna II (26,035 ft.; 7,935m) far ahead of you. You soon come to Bagarchap (7,100 ft.; 2,164m), a sunny village that was devastated by a landslide in 1995. There are several lodges here, most of which were built after the landslide occurred. Above the village is a Buddhist mon-astery of the Nyingmapa sect. Beyond Bagarchap, the trail enters a thick rhododendron forest, where you might see gray langurs, a long-tailed monkey that frequents the higher elevations. The trail passes the small village of Dhanagyu, which has several lodges but which is almost always cold and dark due to its location on the north side of a steep ridge.
Beyond Dhanagyu the trail crosses a bridge in front of a powerful waterfall, beyond which the trail becomes a steep stone stairway that is almost always wet or icy be especially careful. The trail continues through enchanting forests for several hours, passing through the village of Latamarang, where there are several lodges. From the rhododendron forest of the lower elevations, you climb to forests of fir and pine. Finally, the forest gives way to a flat cultivated area, and you enter the village of Koto, where there is a police checkpoint. Entering the forest again, the trail climbs gradually to Chame (8,900 ft.; 2,713m), a government administrative center with many offices, lodges, and shops. The better lodging choices are across the river close to a small hot spring that is used by locals as a combination laundry and public bath. There is an excellent view of Manaslu back down the valley to the east.
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