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Trekking Routes: The Jomosom Trek
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Day 5: Ghasa to Tukuche
Ghasa to Kalopani: 3 hours; Kalopani to Larjung: 3 hours; Larjung to Tukuche: 1 1/2 & hours. Elevation Gain: 1,700 ft. (518m).
Above Ghasa, the trail climbs steadily through forests with a view of a massive landslide on the far side of the Kali Gandaki. When the wind blows, clouds of dust billow up from the landslide. Cross a stream and then pass through Kaiku. Continue climbing, through an area prone to landslides that can be seen on either side of the Kali Gandaki, and cross the Lete Khola; a couple of teahouses are located here. Climb a bit more to reach the spread-out village of Lete (7,800 ft.; 2,377m), where there are several lodges. Do not cross the river on the suspension bridge you see here. Right before reaching Lete, you begin to have an excellent view of (from west to east) Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri, and Annapurna I.
Beyond Lete, the trail ascends very gradually through pine forests as the valley becomes wide and flat. It takes about 30 minutes to get to Kalopani (8,300 ft.; 2,530m). In Kalopani, the See You Lodge and Kalopani Guest House are both good choices. The huge Pine Forest Lodge, an American-funded training center for Nepalis going into the tourism industry, is a bizarre and expensive place that lacks the family atmosphere of other lodges on this trek.
Just past Kalopani, you pass between Dhaulagiri (26,790 ft.; 8,166m) and Annapurna I (26,540 ft.; 8,089m), two of the tallest mountains on earth. It is nearly 3 1/2 & miles from the riverbed at Kalopani to the top of Annapurna I. The Kali Gandaki Valley, between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I, is said to be the deepest river valley on earth.
Just past Kalopani, cross to the east bank of the Kali Gandaki on a suspension bridge. The trail climbs up above the river through dry pine forests interspersed with pastures before descending again to the wide valley floor at Kokhethanti, where there are several lodges. Depending on the time of year, continue up the rocky riverbed, or on the high route through the forests to a suspension bridge that takes you back to the west bank of the Kali Gandaki. Continuing up the valley from this bridge, you have the option of following the trail up a tributary valley to another bridge or taking a shortcut across this tributary's alluvial plane and icy braided streams. Instead of removing your boots to cross the streams, it's probably easier to just walk the extra distance to the bridge. On the far side of this river is Larjung (8,400 ft.; 2,560m), where there are mani walls and a gompa, signs that you are now in a region inhabited by Buddhists. There are several lodges in Larjung; try the Larjung Lodge.
The village of Khobang just beyond Larjung is architecturally similar, with the trail winding through the village in a narrow, often-covered alley. As the trail leaves Khobang, it also leaves the riverbed and climbs slightly through terraced hillsides to the Thakali village of Tukuche (8,500 ft.; 2,591m). This large village was once an important trading center. Tibetan traders would come down the Kali Gandaki (also known as the Thak Khola above this point) with salt and wool, and exchange it for rice and barley from Nepal. When the salt trade was stopped in 1959, Tukuche began to decline in regional importance. When trekking became popular, the Thakali people, who dominated the salt trade in Nepal, turned to operating lodges, which they now do very successfully up and down the Kali Gandaki. There are several very comfortable lodges in Tukuche, most of which are in old homes that were built on the profits of the salt trade. Houses in this region are traditionally built with central courtyards to block the fierce winds that blow down the Kali Gandaki. In the winter, when it is sunny but cold and windy, a courtyard can be very cozy, while outside the wind chill makes it very uncomfortable. As you wander through the village, admire the carved and brightly painted wooden balconies. Try the Tukche Guest House or the Himali Hotel.
Day 6: Tukuche to Kagbeni
Tukuche to Marpha: 1 1/2 & hours; Marpha to Jomosom: 2 hours; Jomosom to Kagbeni: 3 hours. Elevation Gain: 700 ft. (214m).
As you leave Tukuche, the trail passes through the last bits of juniper forest. Ahead lie the barren upper reaches of the Kali Gandaki, where annual rainfall is less than 10 inches. This is the high desert, and thorny shrubs begin to dominate the vegetation. However, before reaching Marpha, you cross terraced and irrigated fields, which are part of an agricultural project. There are apple and apricot groves in this area, and up and down the valley you will find apple pie on lodge menus, and dried apples in the shops. You'll also find lots of apple brandy, which comes from a government distillery here in Marpha. The distillery is surrounded by apple orchards and is worth a visit.
Passing several whitewashed mani walls, you enter the handsome village of Marpha (8,750 ft.; 2,667m), where the flat-roofed houses stairstep up a steep hillside. While most villages along the trekking route have had muddy streets strewn with garbage, Marpha has a system of stone-covered canals that act as a sewer system, giving the village a very tidy appearance. You enter and exit the village through gateway chortens known as kanis. On the inside walls and ceiling of the kanis are paintings of various Buddhist deities. There is also a large, modern gompa in Marpha that is set at the top of a long, impressive, and out-of-place flight of cement stairs. You're likely to encounter Tibetan traders near Marpha. They live across the river in Chhairo and come over to sell curios to the trekkers. These vendors are often willing to trade for anything you want to get rid of, but prices are not always better than in Kathmandu, which is where most of their wares come from (not Tibet). High on the hillside above Marpha is a brightly painted large rock that is topped with prayer flags.
If you have time to spare, Marpha is actually a much nicer place to stay than Jomosom. The Paradise Guest House and the Dhaulagiri Guest House are good choices here.
From Marpha you can take a shortcut up the rocky riverbed during the dry season, or you can follow the main trail through the small village of Syang. Either route will soon bring you to Jomosom (8,900 ft.; 2,713m), the largest village on this trek and the district headquarters. You first come to the newer end of town, which is the site of the airstrip and several upscale lodges (several of which have rooms with private bathrooms). Also at this end of town is the very interesting Mustang Eco-Museum, which has lots of information on the history of the Mustang region. Beyond the airstrip are a police checkpoint and some houses on the west bank of the Kali Gandaki.
Two wooden bridges cross the river to old Jomosom, which has more lodges (including one that Jimi Hendrix reputedly once stayed in), a bank, a post office, and an army base. The view from Jomosom is dominated by Nilgiri (23,160 ft.; 7,059m), which towers above the south side of the valley. To the left of Nilgiri is Tilicho (23,400 ft.; 7,132m), and down at the west end of the valley is Dhaulagiri. Though there are plenty of good lodges here serving some of the best food on the trek, Jomosom lacks the traditional character of other villages on this route. The Xanadu Himalayan Pension, Hotel Nilgiri View, Hotel Snowland, and Rita Guest House are among the better lodges here.
If the winds aren't blowing, it is an easy, though rocky, hike up the valley, and I recommend continuing to Kagbeni. However, the winds in this valley can sometimes be ferocious, making it almost impossible to be outside in the afternoon. You'll be walking in the middle of a dry riverbed and will be exposed to the wind. Luckily, the winds blow up the valley toward Kagbeni, so even if you set out on a windy day, you'll have the wind at your back.
The trail leaves from the north end of old Jomosom and follows the east bank, sometimes in the riverbed, sometimes on a trail cut into the rock high above the river, to the cluster of lodges at Eklai Bhatti. Here the trail forks. The right fork climbs up a rocky slope and continues to Muktinath. Take the left fork, which follows the riverbed to Kagbeni (9,200 ft.; 2,804m), a fascinating warren of mud-and-stone houses piled one on top of the other. Narrow alleyways wander through the village, sometimes under houses, sometimes across their roofs. In the middle of the village are the ruins of an old fortress that guarded the two valleys above this point. There is also a large, though decrepit, gompa in Kagbeni.
Across the Kali Gandaki and on the steep hillside above the village are numerous caves once used by Buddhist hermits. Up the Kali Gandaki from Kagbeni lies the Upper Mustang region, which is a restricted area. Trekking permits for this area cost $700 and are good for 10 days (see "Trekking-Permit Fees" in section 9). The Royal Guest House and the Shangrila Lodge are two of the better choices here.
Day 7: Kagbeni to Muktinath
Kagbeni to Jharkot: 3 1/2 & hours; Jharkot to Muktinath: 1 hour. Elevation Gain: 3,275 ft. (998m).
To continue up to the pilgrimage site of Muktinath, cross back over the stream you crossed just outside Kagbeni, and turn southeast up the valley. This trail climbs a barren hillside to meet the direct trail from Jomosom to Muktinath in 1 hour. Across the valley you can see more caves and the ruins of an ancient fortress village. In another hour, you will pass a large grove of trees at the village of Khingar. Climb across terraces to enter Jharkot (11,440 ft.; 3,487m), where there are more fortress ruins. Jharkot sits atop a small hill, and around the flanks of the village, you're likely to see the yak-cow crossbreeds used as draft and pack animals in this region. These animals are shaggy and stocky but have a better temperament than a purebred yak. They are used both for producing milk and as pack and draft animals.
Jharkot is very similar in architecture and design to Kagbeni, though due to its hilltop location it gets far more sun and feels a bit more prosperous than Kagbeni. A large red cube-shaped gompa dominates the Jharkot skyline. Try the Hotel Sonam or the Hotel New Plaza.
From Jharkot, the trail continues climbing past more trees and across terraced fields to Ranipowa. In Ranipowa, there are numerous lodges and a police checkpoint. However, because Ranipowa is little more than a collection of trekkers' lodges, Jharkot is a much more appealing place to stay. If you really want to stay up here, try the Hotel Muktinath, the Himalaya Hotel, or the North Pole Lodge.
A few minutes beyond Ranipowa, in a glade of trees, are the shrines of Muktinath. Muktinath (12,475 ft.; 3,802m) is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Nepal and is visited by both Buddhists and Hindus. Within the main temple here are the sacred flames that were mentioned 2,000 years ago in the Indian epic Mahabharata. These flames, caused by natural gas leaks, burn on rock and earth. If you give a small donation, the keeper will gladly open the temple and show you the flames, which are hidden behind curtains. There are also 108 waterspouts, most of them shaped like cows' heads, through which flow holy waters. Because one of the temples is dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu, and because Buddha is considered an incarnation of Vishnu, the shrine is sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists. Over the years, devout pilgrims have planted thousands of trees, and Muktinath is now something of an oasis in the barren hills. The annual pilgrimage and festival takes place during the full moon of late August or early September.
If you want to visit Muktinath but don't look forward to the hike up, you can rent a pony for around Rs500 ($7.60) in Kagbeni and ride up. Just don't do this if you are suffering from symptoms of altitude sickness. You can also hire a pony to take you to Jomosom for the same price. Look for signs around the villages for lodges that rent ponies, or ask the proprietor at your lodge to give you a recommendation.
Days 8-15: Muktinath Back to Pokhara
If you are in a hurry to get back to Pokhara or you need to catch a plane in Jomosom, you can bypass Kagbeni and go directly from Muktinath, via Jharkot and Eklai Bhatti, to Jomosom. This direct trail continues past the junction with the trail from Jharkot to Kagbeni, descending a long slope to the floor of the Kali Gandaki valley at Eklai Bhatti. You should leave Muktinath as early in the morning as possible to avoid the winds, which usually pick up around 11am and will now be in your face rather than at your back. Unless you are planning to fly out of Jomosom, I suggest continuing on to Marpha. It takes about 3 hours to get from Muktinath to Jomosom.
A number of options are available for the return trip from Jomosom to Pokhara. If you don't have much time and you have the cash handy, you can fly back to Pokhara. The flight takes only 45 minutes and costs $55. Another choice is to retrace your steps as far as Tatopani, and instead of making the grueling climb up to Ghorapani and back down the other side, you can follow the Kali Gandaki to Beni or Baglung. There are regular buses from Baglung and irregular transport (buses or trucks) from Beni back to Pokhara. You might even find a taxi or two waiting around Baglung if you feel like splurging. It's a long day's walk to Beni, but along the way there are several nice lodges, so you might want to break this into a 2-day hike. In Beni, try the Hotel Yeti, or stop an hour outside of Beni in Galeswore at the Riverside Guest House, which has rooms with attached bathrooms.
If you are full of energy and feel up to making the climb to Ghorapani and down the other side in only 2 days, you can get back to Pokhara in 6 days, rather than the 7 days it took to reach Muktinath. An alternative route worth considering is to leave the main route at Ghorapani and take the trail to Ghandruk, a large Gurung village on the main route to the Annapurna Sanctuary. If you want to extend your trek, you can then continue up to the sanctuary. If you return to Pokhara through Ghandruk, you can go by way of Birethanti to Naya Pul or by way of Landruk and Dhampus to Phedi. From either Naya Pul or Phedi, you can get a bus or taxi back to Pokhara.
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