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Trekking Routes: Annapurna Sanctuary
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Day 1: Pokhara to Landruk
Pokhara to Phedi: 30 minutes; Phedi to Dhampus: 1 1/2 & hours; Dhampus to Pothana: 1 1/2 & hours; Pothana to Tolka: 1 1/2 & hours; Tolka to Landruk: 1 1/2 & hours. Elevation Gain: 3,350 ft. (1,021m). Elevation Loss:1,450 ft. (442m).
Take a taxi from Pokhara to the trailhead at Phedi for around Rs300 ($4.55). The ride takes about 30 minutes. Phedi (3,700 ft.; 1,128m), which means "Bottom of the Hill," is at the foot of a moderately steep trail that climbs through scrubby forest to the ridge-top village of Dhampus (5,700 ft.; 1,737m). This 2,000-foot (610m) climb is a tough way to start a trek, but after you reach Dhampus, the trail becomes easier. There are excellent views of Machhapuchhare and Annapurna from along the trail near Dhampus. Ker & Downey's Basanta Lodge is the nicest lodge in the village, but because this lodge caters primarily to organized teahouse treks, you usually have to have a reservation (contact Ker & Downey's in Kathmandu for reservations). From Dhampus, the trail climbs slowly as it contours around a forested ridge with only a few simple teahouses. Just below the crest of this ridge is the village of Pothana, where there are several lodges with glassed-in rooftop dining rooms that make the most of the mountain views.
From Pothana, where there is a great view of Machhapuchhare, the trail first climbs a bit and then, after cresting the ridge, descends very steeply. You will pass the hamlet of Beri Kharka and reach the small village of Tolka (5,900 ft.; 1,798m), where there are more lodges with rooftop dining rooms. The trail continues descending through the forest and, after leveling off at Medigala, enters Landruk (5,600 ft.; 1,707m), a fairly large village with lots of unremarkable lodges. Try the Maya Guest House. If you don't mind having a slightly longer walk tomorrow, you'd do better to stay in Tolka. The large village across the valley from Landruk is Ghandruk.
Day 2: Landruk to Chomrong
Landruk to New Bridge: 1 1/2 & hours; New Bridge to Jhinu Danda: 1 1/2 & hours; Jhinu Danda to Chomrong: 1 1/2 & hours. Elevation Gain: 2,280 ft. (695m). Elevation Loss: 500 ft. (152m).
From Landruk, there are two possible routes. If you take the trail that descends steeply from Landruk to the floor of the Modi Khola Valley, you will be headed for Ghandruk, the largest village in the area. The trail is a steep 1,000-foot (305m) descent followed by an equally steep 2,000-foot (610m) ascent. To avoid this grueling stretch of trail, I suggest you take an alternative route that descends slowly to the valley floor. To follow this route, do not drop down the steep trail that leads to Ghandruk, but instead keep to the right on what is a relatively level trail leading out of Landruk. This trail, which descends at a much gentler angle, leads up the valley of the Modi Khola on the east bank. The trail finally crosses the river at a spot known as New Bridge or Himal Kyu (5,100 ft.; 1,554m). There are several lodges at the bridge.
From here the trail climbs steeply to Jhinu Danda (5,800 ft.; 1,768m), where there are at least six large lodges. A 30-minute walk from Jhinu Danda will bring you to a very relaxing hot spring on the banks of the Modi Khola; unfortunately, it is a steep climb back up to the lodges after bathing. From Jhinu Danda, the trail continues climbing steeply, and without shade, to a few lodges on the shoulder of a ridge at 7,240 feet (2,207m). These lodges mark the junction with the trail to Ghandruk. Turn right on this trail, and you soon reach the first of the lodges in upper Chomrong (7,380 ft.; 2,249m). Although the actual village of Chomrong lies some 800 feet (244m) lower, the views are better up here, and most trekkers choose to stay at one of these upper lodges. The lodges here boast flagstone terraces, gardens, solar showers, and sun rooms. Try the Chomrong Guest House, Excellent View Lodge, Kalpana Guest House, or the ever-popular Moonlight Lodge. They can also claim one of the best views in the region, one that takes in Machhapuchhare, Annapurna South, and Hiunchuli.
From upper Chomrong, the trail descends on a steep stone staircase, passing lots of lodges, to the village itself. The upper lodges have much better views and consequently are very popular with trekkers on their way up to the sanctuary. However, people heading down often stay in lower Chomrong rather than face the seemingly endless staircase that climbs to the lodges in upper Chomrong. The Captain's Lodge and the Annapurna Guest House are the best choices in the village itself. Note: There are no more villages beyond this point, so before continuing, find out whether lodges in the sanctuary are open.
Day 3: Chomrong to Dovan
Chomrong to Sinuwa: 1 1/2 & hours; Sinuwa to Khuldi Ghar: 1 hour; Khuldi Ghar to Bamboo: 30 minutes; Bamboo to Dovan: 1 hour. Elevation Gain: 2,420 ft. (695m). Elevation Loss: 1,620 ft. (494m).
This is a short and fairly easy day. From Chomrong, the trail descends and crosses the Chomrong Khola (6,180 ft.; 1,884m), a tributary of the Modi Khola, before beginning the long climb to Khuldi Ghar. As you cross the bridge, look downstream and you'll see the tiny micro-hydroelectric project that supplies electricity to Chomrong. The entire generating system isn't much bigger than a refrigerator.
From the bridge, you climb up the steep slope of this tributary valley and, at about 7,000 feet (2,134m), come to the large Sherpa Guest House and contour around a ridge into the main valley of the Modi Khola. From here it is almost an hour more to the lodges at Sinuwa (7,720 ft.; 2353m). The trail continues climbing (though with lots of ups and downs) to Khuldi Ghar (8,020 ft.; 2,444m), where there is an ACAP checkpoint. Part of this section of trail is paved with tight-fitting paving stones and even has a gutter. From here, the trail descends very steeply, sometimes along rock outcroppings that have had steps set into them. At the bottom of this steep stretch, you'll find the collection of lodges known as Bamboo (7,600 ft.; 2,316m). This makes a good lunch spot.
Beyond Bamboo, the trail continues through dense, damp forest to the lodges at Dovan (8,180 ft.; 2,493m). These lodges all have large slate patios. Although it will likely still be early in the day, you should probably stop here for the night. From here on up, you have to stop early in the day if you want to be assured of getting a room. However, if you continue and the next lodges don't have any rooms left, they'll always let you sleep on a foam pad in the dining room.
Day 4: Dovan to Deorali
Dovan to Himalayan Hotel: 1 1/2 & hours; Himalayan Hotel to Deorali: 1 1/2 & hours. Elevation Gain: 2,160 ft. (659m).
Dovan is little more than a clearing in the forest, and as you leave the collection of lodges, on a stretch of trail that can be extremely slippery, you enter a forest of giant rhododendrons. These are not the shrubs you have in your garden at home, but trees with trunks several feet in diameter. Due to the lack of sunshine and the clouds that often roll up the valley around noon, this section of trail is almost always cool and damp. The valley is extremely steep-walled at this point and, because of its north-south orientation, gets little sunlight but plenty of rain. Streamers of water plunge hundreds of feet down the opposite valley wall and can occasionally be glimpsed through breaks in the forest. At one such break there is a small shrine and a memorial to a trekker who died near here several years ago. Directly behind this shrine, there is a new trail that was constructed in 1998 to bypass a stretch of the old trail that was prone to avalanches and landslides. This trail climbs steeply up through the forest before making a more gradual ascent to the collection of lodges called Himalayan Hotel (9,300 ft.; 2,835m). These lodges, with their large patios, are much sunnier and drier than the lodges of Dovan and Bamboo.
Tree roots and mud make the footing treacherous on many stretches of the trail between Dovan and Himalayan Hotel. However, beyond Himalayan Hotel, you climb above the forest and get back on dry trail again, this time in scrubby grasslands. A steep climb brings you to Hinko Cave (9,900 ft.; 3,018m), an overhanging cliff where for many years there was a very basic lodge. From the cave, you can see the lodges at Deorali situated below and up the valley. The trail descends a bit and crosses an avalanche chute (you may be walking on mud-covered ice) before climbing up to the lodges at Deorali (10,340 ft.; 3,152m). Most people can feel the effects of the elevation by the time they reach Deorali-it's a good idea to stop early and make this an acclimatization day. It is possible to reach Annapurna Base Camp on this day, but because it's at 13,300 feet (4,054m), you would be risking altitude sickness.
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