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Trekking Routes: Annapurna Sanctuary
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Day 5: Deorali to Annapurna Base Camp
Deorali to Machhapuchhare Base Camp: 1 1/2 & hours; Machhapuchhare Base Camp to Annapurna Base Camp: 2 hours. Elevation Gain: 2,960 ft. (902m).
The trail from Deorali first climbs up and then descends to the bed of the Modi Khola with good views of Machhapuchhare to the east and Gangapurna to the north. Between Deorali and Machhapuchhare Base Camp, you pass through the natural gateway to the sanctuary. This gateway is formed by Machhapuchhare on the east and Hiunchuli on the west as they pinch the Modi Khola into a steep-walled valley. This is another avalanche area and the trail is sometimes obliterated-so be careful. If you lose the trail, just continue following the riverbed. Machhapuchhare Base Camp (11,800 ft.; 3,597m), more commonly referred to as MBC, is on a gently sloping grassy hillside scattered with gigantic boulders and is about 1 1/2 & hours beyond Deorali. There are five lodges here and an excellent view of Machhapuchhare, Annapurna III, Fang, and Annapurna South. From here the trail leads almost due west at the base of the north slope of Hiunchuli. To the north of the trail are South Annapurna Glacier and the moraine formed by this impressive glacier. Look for Himalayan tahrs on the slopes to the north of Machhapuchhare Base Camp. Many people choose to stay here for the night to avoid risking altitude sickness. If you do stay here, hike up to Annapurna Base Camp before sunrise the next morning so you can catch the dawn light on the peaks that surround the sanctuary.
From MBC, it is about 2 hours to Annapurna Base Camp (13,300 ft.; 4,054m), which is most often referred to simply as ABC. The 360-degree panorama from here is one of the most spectacular sights in all of Nepal and includes (starting on the south side and moving clockwise) Hiunchuli (21,130 ft.; 6,440m), Annapurna South (23,680 ft.; 7,218m), Fang (25,089 ft.; 7,647m), Annapurna I (26,545 ft.; 8,091m), Annapurna III (24,787 ft.; 7,555m), and Machhapuchhare (22,942 ft.; 6,993m). ABC got its name when it was used in 1970 as base camp for famed mountaineer Chris Bonnington's ascent of Annapurna I. Bonnington scaled the nearly vertical south face of Annapurna I, which is the massive peak you see to the northwest of Annapurna Base Camp. Three peaks within the sanctuary-Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak, 18,580 ft.; 5,663m), Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak, 21,315 ft.; 6,497m), and Hiunchuli-are designated trekking peaks, which you can climb if you have the proper permits. All three require the proper equipment and extensive mountaineering skills.
ABC lies at the foot of the Annapurna Glacier's lateral moraine, and if you hike up to the top of the moraine, you will see the gray, rock-strewn bulk of this glacier far below. The rumble of rock and ice slides coming off Annapurna South frequently break the silence of the sanctuary. Park yourself on the lip of the moraine west of the lodges, and, with patience, you may see one of these thunderous slides. Closer at hand, there are unusual alpine plants that grow here, including a tiny gentian that is often still in bloom in early November.
Of the four lodges at ABC, the Paradise Garden Hotel, though it has no garden and is hardly a paradise, is the best. Expect the lodges up here to be crowded and food to be relatively expensive. These two factors are enough to prevent most people from spending more than a day or two in the sanctuary.
Day 6: Exploring Annapurna Sanctuary
If it is not too cold and windy, you may want to spend a day exploring the sanctuary. One favorite excursion is the hike up the hill directly south of the lodges. As you climb this hill, known as Rakshi Peak, the views get better and better. Alternatively, for a longer hike, you can follow the trail down to the Annapurna Glacier and hike across to the north side of the valley. Because Annapurna Sanctuary is above 12,000 feet (3,658m), it is very important to be alert for symptoms of altitude sickness. You will almost certainly be short of breath and find exercising much more difficult than at lower elevations.
Day 7: Annapurna Base Camp to Bamboo
Annapurna Base Camp to Deorali: 3 hours; Deorali to Bamboo: 3 hours. Elevation Loss: 5,700 ft. (1,737m).
Before heading back down, be sure that there is no danger of avalanches. (Lodge owners are usually aware of the level of avalanche danger, but note that the possibility of an avalanche is highest after a recent snowfall.) The route back is the same as the route up, but you can expect to make better time going out since it is mostly downhill.
Day 8: Bamboo to Chomrong
Bamboo to Sinuwa: 2 hours; Sinuwa to Chomrong: 1 1/2 & hours. Elevation Gain: 1,620 ft. (494m). Elevation Loss: 1,840 ft. (561m).
Although you have to make two long ascents and two long descents, it is possible to reach Ghandruk in 1 long day from Bamboo. However, you'd be wiser to take a short day and spend the afternoon resting in Chomrong. The views just don't get any better than this for the rest of the trek.
Day 9: Chomrong to Ghandruk
Chomrong to Kimrong: 2 1/2 & hours; Kimrong to Kimrong Pass: 1 1/2 & hours; Kimrong Pass to Ghandruk: 1 hour. Elevation Gain: 2,170 ft. (661m). Elevation Loss: 1,540 ft. (469m).
I suggest that rather than retracing your steps from Chomrong to the road, you return by way of Ghandruk. From Chomrong, the trail climbs a bit to a spur ridge (7,240 ft.; 2,207m) that looks down on Jhinu Danda and the lodge near the hot springs (the way you came up). Be sure to glance back over your shoulders for one last close-up glimpse of Machhapuchhare, Hiunchuli, and Annapurna South. From here, take the trail to the right and contour up the valley of the Kimrong Khola. This stretch of trail is fairly level for a while and offers easy walking. Parts of the trail are in forest, but most of it is through terraced millet fields and is open to the warmth of the sun, a welcome change from the cold and damp of the Modi Khola. Along this stretch of trail, you will find the junction with the route from Ghorapani (by way of Tadapani). For a description of this route, which links the Annapurna Circuit or Jomosom trek with the Annapurna Sanctuary trek, see the end of "The Jomosom Trek," earlier in this section.
Above the village of Kimrong (6,000 ft.; 1,829m), the trail suddenly drops in short, steep switchbacks to the village, which itself is 200 feet (61m) or so above the river. There is a shortcut that descends steeply to a teahouse on the banks of the river, but it is worthwhile to take the longer route through the village. On the opposite bank of the river, the trail follows a stream through terraced fields before entering a rather open forest. It is a steep climb up to the Kimrong Pass (7,340 ft.; 2,237m), but luckily it is in the shade and does not take too long. At the pass, there are a few lodges. You can see Ghandruk below you, across a sparsely wooded hillside. The trail descends quickly and then contours through open rock-strewn fields to Ghandruk (6,750 ft.; 2,057m).
Ghandruk, a Gurung village, has grown large and prosperous on the pensions of re-tired Gurkha soldiers. The village is broken up into three sections, and coming from Chomrong, you first reach the oldest section of town, where two- and three-story stone houses with slate roofs and flagstone terraces are crammed tightly together in a maze of narrow paved alleys. Passing through this section of the village, you will come to a smaller grouping of old homes, a few of which have been opened up to the public as museums and teahouses serving traditional Gurung food. These are well worth a visit.
Continuing around the hill will bring you to the newest part of town, which is where you will find most of Ghandruk's many lodges, including the popular Hotel Trekker's Inn and the Hotel Milan. Several of the lodges here have rooms with private bathrooms. Unfortunately, most of the new lodges here have been built of cement in the ugly style of Pokhara's budget hotels. For more character, stick with the lodges in the older part of the village. The Excellent View Lodge, with a pretty garden, is a good choice, as is the Snowland Lodge. Ghandruk's nicest lodge is Ker & Downey's Himalaya Lodge, with its spacious gardens, cathedral-ceilinged dining hall, attractively decorated spacious rooms, and tiled private bathrooms. This lodge is used almost exclusively by organized teahouse trekking groups.
This is also where you'll find the headquarters of the Annapurna Conservation Area Project. Stop by to learn more about what ACAP is doing to preserve the culture and natural beauty of this spectacular region.
Day 10: Ghandruk to Birethanti
Ghandruk to Shaule Bazaar: 3 hours; Shaule Bazaar to Birethanti: 2 hours; Birethanti to Naya Pul: 30 minutes; Naya Pul to Pokhara: 2-3 hours by bus or 1 hour by taxi. Elevation Loss: 3,110 ft. (948m).
From Ghandruk, the trail descends gradually at first on a wide flagstone-paved trail that is the superhighway of this trek. The trail crosses open hillsides and is usually warm and sunny. Keep to the ridge and continue descending slowly, passing through the small village of Kimche (5,480 ft.; 1,670m). Near the village of Clue, the landscape becomes more lush. Eventually, the trail becomes steeper as it heads for the valley floor just below Shaule Bazaar (3,723 ft.; 1,135m). The trail finally reaches the river at a couple of lodges known as Riverside. From here the trail is once again quite level, but the going is rather difficult because you are walking on river rocks. Along this stretch of trail, you will pass Ker & Downey's Sanctuary Lodge.
In another 30 minutes or so, you will be in Birethanti (3,640 ft.; 1,109m), which is the last village before Naya Pul and the road. Birethanti stands at the confluence of the Bhurungdi Khola and the Modi Khola and is a busy bazaar village on the trekking route to Jomosom. Because this is the most popular trekking route in the country, there are plenty of comfortable lodges here, including the upscale Lakshmi Lodge, which charges around $12 for an attractive room with a shared bathroom. If you aren't yet ready to leave the trails, this makes a pleasant place to spend 1 last night. Otherwise, it is just a 30- to 45-minute walk down the river to the road.
The trail to Naya Pul crosses the suspension bridge and immediately forks to the right, staying on the valley floor. Be sure to glance back over your shoulder at the excellent view of Machhapuchhare. The trail is now lined with small businesses selling supplies needed by villages up the trail, and although the view of the river is nice, this stretch of trail has the feel of a road-head boomtown. Things just get uglier and uglier and more and more packed with shops as you approach the road that connects Pokhara with Baglung. There will be buses (Rs26; 40¢) and taxis (Rs700; $10.60) waiting here to take you back to Pokhara.
An alternative to the easy Naya Pul route is to climb 1 1/2 & hours from Birethanti to Chandrakot (5,125 ft.; 1,562m). This is a more rigorous trail, but it cuts off almost an hour of the bus or truck ride and gives you a chance to visit one last village before ending your trek. Why rush back to the noise and pollution of civilization? To take this route, cross the suspension bridge and keep to the left; the trail immediately begins climbing steeply to Chandrakot, which is about 1,500 feet (457m) higher than Birethanti. From Chandrakot, it is just a few minutes downhill to the road where you can wait for a bus. If you are full of energy, you might just start walking along the road and flag down the next vehicle headed toward Pokhara.
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