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Trekking Routes: Gosainkund
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Day 1: Dhunche (or Syabru) to Shin Gompa
Dhunche to Dimsa: 4 hours; Dimsa to Shin Gompa: 1 hour; Sybaru to Shin Gompa: 4 hours. Elevation Gain: From Dhunche, 4,550 ft. (1,388m); from Syabru, 3,950 ft. (1,204m).
The trail to Shin Gompa leaves the road through Dhunche on the far side of town from the police checkpoint. The trail crosses through terraced fields before descending to the Trisuli Khola, a stream that has its origin in Gosainkund Lake. The path keeps close to the right bank for a while but then begins climbing steadily through forests of oak and, at higher elevations, fir and rhododendron. This is a long, steep climb with only a few lodges between Dhunche and Shin Gompa, so carry plenty of water and some snacks. Because this stretch of trail is so sparsely populated, it is the most likely place for you to spot wildlife, including langurs (long-tailed monkeys), martens, and many species of birds.
It is a sweaty 3 hours before you reach the first teahouse and another hour or so to the lodges at Dimsa, which is above the point where a trail from Bharkhu joins this trail. In another hour of climbing through forest from Dimsa, you come to the small Buddhist monastery of Shin Gompa (10,950 ft.; 3,338m) in a large clearing on the side of a steep slope. This clearing was caused by a fire more than a decade ago, and the skeletal tree trunks that rise from the hillside frequently serve as perches for large hawks. Shin Gompa is also the site of a large government cheese factory and a couple of good lodges.
If you are coming from Syabru, walk uphill through the village. Just past the army post, take the trail that forks to the right. This trail leads very steeply uphill and continues to climb sharply for several hours. For the first 2 hours, the trail climbs up an open hillside with good views. There are several teahouses along this stretch of trail. The trail then enters a thick wood filled with huge old trees. After hiking through this forest for an hour or more, you come to a lodge on a cleared ridge (10,492 ft.; 3,198m). There are excellent views from here, and this makes a great lunch spot. Beyond this teahouse, the trail is much less steep. Short climbs alternate with fairly flat sections of trail, and forests alternate with pastures. After passing through the last bit of enchanting forest, you come to Shin Gompa.
Day 2: Shin Gompa to Laurebina Yak
Shin Gompa to Cholang Pati: 1 1/2 & hours; Cholang Pati to Laurebina Yak: 1 1/2 & hours. Elevation Gain: 1,837 ft. (560m).
Although this is a short day, you still manage to ascend 1,837 feet (560m), which is as much as you should attempt at this altitude. If you aren't planning on going over the Surjakund Pass, you might consider hiking up to Gosainkund Lake in the afternoon and then returning to Laurebina Yak. If you are feeling any discomfort from the altitude, consider spending an acclimatization day at Shin Gompa before moving on.
From Shin Gompa, the wide, well-trodden trail continues climbing steadily through rhododendron forest with the Trisuli Khola far below. The trail crosses over to the Langtang side of the ridge shortly before reaching the lodges at Cholang Pati (11,751 ft.; 3,582m).
Above Cholang Pati, you leave the forest and pass through a landscape of rhododendron shrubs. You are now above the treeline, and as you continue to climb, the vegetation becomes more and more stunted.
An hour and a half above Cholang Pati, you come to the stone lodges at Laurebina Yak (12,787 ft.; 3,897m). This barren ridgeline, with no protection from the fierce winds, is always cold, but it offers one of the most stunning vistas in Nepal. Visible are Langtang Lirung (23,767 ft.; 7,244m) to the north; a mountain range in Tibet to the northwest; and the Ganesh Himal (24,357 ft.; 7,424m), Himalchuli (25,879 ft.; 7,888m), and Manaslu (26,764 ft.; 8,158m) all to the west. For this reason alone (regard-less of the need to stop due to the Elevation Gain), it is worth spending a night here. The views are best in the early morning, when the skies are cloud free. By late afternoon, this ridge is often socked in by dense clouds and can be very cold and damp.
Day 3: Laurebina Yak to Gopte
Laurebina Yak to Gosainkund Lake: 2 hours; Gosainkund to Surjakund Pass: 1 1/2 & hours; Surjakund Pass to Gopte: 4 hours. Elevation Gain: 2,463 FT. (751m). Elevation Loss: 3,550 ft. (1,082m).
Because you must get up and over the Surjakund Pass and then descend a long way to the first lodges, be sure to get an early start, but don't leave before you catch the sunrise. Also be sure to have lunch at Gosainkund Lake before heading over the pass.
Above Laurebina Yak, the trail climbs steeply to a grassy ridge, where there is a small Buddhist shrine just off the trail. Beyond this shrine, the trail ascends more gradually but clings to a vertiginous mountainside. This area is used in the summer months as high-altitude grazing land for flocks of sheep and goats. From here you will finally be able to see the Gosainkund lakes. The first two lakes lay far below the trail, which begins to descend when the third lake comes into view. This third lake is the holy Gosainkund Lake (14,350 ft.; 4,374m), and it has a Shiva shrine and some guest houses on its shores.
The trail then skirts the north shore of Gosainkund Lake before climbing toward the pass. As you climb this easy slope, you will see four more lakes. You will know you have reached Surjakund Pass (15,100 ft.; 4,602m) when you see the many cairns that have been built over the years. The trail then descends, steeply at first but then more gradually, to the southeast on a rocky path. In about an hour you will come to an area known as Phedi, where during the trekking seasons there is usually a primitive lodge. From here the trail descends another ridge, crossing several streams and passing two waterfalls. After passing another stone hut, the trail climbs to another ridge and Gopte (11,700 ft.; 3,566m), where overhanging rocks form a cave that is also used as a trekkers' lodge.
Day 4: Gopte to Malemchigaon or Kutumsang
Gopte to Tharepati: 2 hours; Tharepati to Malemchigaon: 4 hours; Tharepati to Kutumsang: 5 hours. To Melemchigaon: Elevation Gain: 3,400 ft. (1,036m). To Kutumsang: Elevation Loss: 3,603 ft. (1,098m).
From Gopte, the trail descends to more caves and enters a thick forest of rhododendrons. The trail crosses a stream, which is dry for part of the year, before climbing through the forest to Tharepati (11,500 ft.; 3,505m), a grouping of small stone huts used in the summer months by herders. During trekking season, there is usually a very basic lodge here.
From the ridge above Tharepati, there are two choices for your onward path. Both trails will get you back to Kathmandu in 3 to 4 days. The trail through Tarke Gyang is the more interesting route, though the first day of this trail entails a steep and difficult descent and an equally steep ascent. To take this route, head southeast and descend to Malemchigaon near the floor of the Malemchi Khola Valley. You will be able to see Tarke Gyang high up on the far side of the valley. The other route back to Kathmandu stays high on a system of ridges that leads from here to the Kathmandu Valley. This trail follows a ridge to the south and leads to Kutumsang.
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