Harbourfront
Start: Union Station.
Finish: Toronto Music Garden.
Time: At least 2 hours.
Best Times: Weekdays in summer.
Worst Time: Weekends in summer, when Harbourfront is packed from end-to-end. Weekends during the rest of the year are much better.
As you start your tour, pause to look at the beaux-arts interior of Union Station, which opened in 1927. The hall has a cathedral-like ceiling, and 22 pillars that weigh 70 tons each. From here, either take the LRT to York Quay or walk south along York Street (away from the Fairmont Royal York hotel) to Queens Quay West. On the way you'll pass the Air Canada Centre, home to the Toronto Maple Leafs hockey team and the Toronto Raptors basketball team. The Gardiner Expressway looms overhead, making this a noisy, dark spot.
When you reach the end of the street, you're at Queens Quay West. Look across to:
1. Queen's Quay Terminal
This large complex houses more than 100 shops and restaurants. On the third floor is a theater designed for dance performances. Built in 1927 when lake and railroad trade flourished, this eight-story concrete warehouse has been attractively renovated. The light, airy two-story marketplace has garden courts, skylights, and waterfalls. Condos occupy the floors above.
Although you'll find few bargains here, there are some charming stores on the street level. They include Oh Yes Toronto, which specializes in souvenirs and Toronto-centric clothing.
On the upper level, options include the classic Tilley Endurables, founded by Torontonian Alex Tilley (who invented the world's most adaptable hat). First Hand Canadian Crafts represents more than 200 contemporary folk artists who make both decorative and functional pieces, and Table of Contents sells all kinds of kitchen gear.
Take a Break
If you want to sit out and watch the lakefront traffic -- boat and human -- go for a light meal or a drink at Spinnakers (tel. 416/203-0559), or the Boathouse Cafe (tel. 416/203-6300), on the ground floor of Queens Quay. Pearl Harbourfront Chinese Cuisine (tel. 416/203-1233) offers more formal dining. The Queens Quay complex also has a variety of cafes, and food vendors just outside.
From Queen's Quay Terminal, walk along the water to the:
2. Power Plant Contemporary Art Gallery
This was indeed a power plant when it was built in 1927. Identifiable by its towering smokestack, the space has been converted to display modern art. The same building houses the Du Maurier Theatre Centre, which presents works in French.
Behind this building, adjacent to Queens Quay West, is the Tent in the Park, where events take place during the summer season.
Walk next door to the:
3. York Quay Centre
A complex converted from a 1940 trucking warehouse, it contains a number of interesting restaurants and galleries. Spend some time in the Craft Studio watching the glassblowers, potters, jewelry makers, and other artisans at work, and browse in the store that sells their work.
On the waterfront side in front of York Quay, there's a pond where kids operate model boats in summer; in winter it turns into an ice-skating rink.
From York Quay, cross the Amsterdam Bridge above Marina 4, checking out the wealth that's bobbing down below. You'll arrive on:
4. John Quay
The first building you'll come to contains four restaurants, beyond which are the towers of the:
5. Radisson Plaza Hotel Admiral and Admiralty Point Condominiums
The complex sits across Queens Quay West from the HarbourPoint Condominiums. The ground level of the Admiralty Point Condos houses a few interesting stores. The Nautical Mind sells marine books, photographs, navigational charts, and boating videos; the Dock Shoppe overflows with all kinds of sailing gear and fashions.
Take a Break
Pop into the Radisson Plaza Hotel Admiral (tel. 416/203-3333), 249 Queens Quay W. It has a couple of dining options (the Commodore's Dining Room and the Gallery Café, which serves light fare), plus a pleasant terrace if it's a sunny day.
Continue west along Queens Quay West past:
6. Maple Leaf Quay
You can stop at the Nautical Centre to sign up for sailing classes first. Continue west and you'll see the Maple Leaf Quay Apartments on your right and the Harbour Terrace Condominiums farther along on your left, on the waterfront.
Next door to the westernmost tower of the Maple Leaf Quay Apartments is the:
7. Toronto Music Garden
A terrific destination for whiling away an afternoon, the Music Garden was designed by world-renowned cellist Yo Yo Ma and landscape architect Julie Moir Messervy to invoke Bach's First Suite for Unaccompanied Cello. The venue is open 7 days a week and admission is free. Even better, there are special musical performances scheduled here throughout the summer, on both weekdays and weekends.
To return to downtown, board the LRT and head back to Union Station.
