Only in Kauai can you ride a horse across the wide-open pastures of a working ranch under volcanic peaks and rein up near a waterfall pool. No wonder Kauai's paniolo (cowboys) smile and sing so much. Near the Poipu area, CJM Country Stables, 1731 Kelaukia St. (2 miles beyond the Hyatt Regency Kauai), Koloa (tel. 808/742-6096; www.cjmstables.com), offers both 2- and 3-hour escorted Hidden Valley beach rides. You'll trot over Hidden Valley ranch land, past secluded beaches and bays, along the Hauupu Ridge, across sugar cane fields, and to Mahaulepu Beach; it's worth your time and money just to get out to this seldom-seen part of Kauai. The "Secret Beach and Breakfast Ride" costs $85 and includes breakfast. The 2-hour "Hidden Beach Ride" is $75. There's also a 3 1/2-hour swim/beach/picnic ride for $95.

Princeville Ranch Stables, Highway 56 (just after the Princeville Airport), Hanalei (tel. 808/826-6777; www.princevilleranch.com), has a variety of outings. The 1 1/2-hour country ride takes in views of the Hanalei Mountains and the vista of Anini Beach ($65), while the 3-hour adventure meanders along the bluffs of the North Shore to Anini Beach, where you tie off your horse and take a short stroll to the beach ($110). The 4-hour "Waterfall Picnic Ride" crosses ranch land, takes you on a short (but steep) hike to swimming pools at the base of waterfalls, and then feeds you a picnic lunch for $120. Riders must be in good physical shape, and don't forget to put your swimsuit on under your jeans. The Princeville Ranch Stables also offers other adventures, ranging from the less strenuous wagon rides to a cattle-drive ride.