A Hawaiian Feast: The Luau--Originally, an ancient Hawaiian feast was called a pa'ina or 'aha'aina, but in 1856, the Pacific Commercial Advertiser (the newspaper of the day) started referring to the feast as a "luau," a name referring to the young taro tops always served at the feast. Try to take in a luau while you're on Kauai. A luau today can range from a backyard affair to a commercial production at a major resort. The best ones are put on by local churches, schools, or hula halau. However, most visitors won't have the opportunity to see these truly authentic feasts. Several commercial luau listed below will provide a taste and a feel for them.
Most luau are fixed in price, generally $52 to $68 for adults, less for children. A variety of traditional foods and entertainment is provided. The luau usually begins at sunset and features Polynesian and Hawaiian entertainment, which can range from lavish affairs with flaming knives or torches being juggled, to performances of ancient hula, missionary-era hula, and modern hula, as well as narration of the stories and legends portrayed by the dances. The food always includes imu-roasted kalua pig, lomi salmon, dried fish, poke (raw fish cut into small pieces), poi (made from taro), laulau (meat, fish, and vegetables wrapped in ti leaves), Hawaiian sweet potato, sautéed vegetables, salad, and the ultimate taste treat, a coconut dessert called haupia. Don't worry; if you've never heard of these items (and can't pronounce them either), most luau will also have more common preparations of fish, chicken, and roast beef, as well as easily recognizable salads and standard desserts like cake.
The mainstay of the feast is the imu, a hot earthen pit in which the pig and other items are cooked. The preparations for the feast actually begin in the morning, when the luau master layers hot stones and banana stalks in the pit to get the temperature up to 400°F. The pig, vegetables, and other items are lowered into the pit and cooked all day. The water in the leaves steams the pig and roasts the meat to a tender texture.
One of the larger commercial luau in the island is Smith's Tropical Paradise Garden Lu'au, in the Tropical Paradise Gardens on the Wailua River (tel. 808/821-6895 or 808/821-6896; www.smithskauai.com), every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 5pm. Luau prices are $58 for adults, $29 for children 7 to 13, and $19 for children 3 to 6; or you can come for just the entertainment at 7:30pm and pay $15 for adults, $7.50 for children under 12.
A few years ago, the Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau gave special recognition to the luau at the Kauai Coconut Beach Resort, Kapaa (tel. 800/22-ALOHA or 808/822-3455; www.kcb.com), especially for its authentic entertainment. The daily luau begins with an imu ceremony in which the pig is removed from the pit. The entertainment is among the best on the island, with ancient and modern hula performances. The cost is $57 for adults, $52 for seniors, $37 for children 12 to 17, and free for children under 12.
Every Tuesday and Thursday, Reflections of Paradise, at the Kilohana Carriage House (where Gaylord's Restaurant is located), 3-2087 Kaumualii Hwy., Lihue (tel. 808/245-9593; www.kilohana.com), gets underway at 6:15pm with a full buffet, followed by the music and dances of Polynesia. The cost is $58 for adults, $54 for seniors and teens 13 to19, $30 for children 4 to 12, and free for children under 4.
The Princeville Resort puts on a beachside luau called Pa'ina O' Hanalei, 5520 Kahaku Rd., Princeville (tel. 800/826-4400 or 808/826-9644; www.princeville.com), Monday and Thursday at 6pm. Under a canopy of stars, a full feast is served and a Polynesian revue performs. The cost is $68 for adults, $55 for seniors, $33 for children 6 to 12.
Also on the north side of the island, a local restaurant, Tahiti Nui, in Hanalei (tel. 808/826-6277; www.hshawaii.com/vacpalnner/kvp/clients/tahitinui/index.html), has been putting on a luau every Wednesday night for more than 3 decades. Besides the all-you-can-eat buffet, there's a Polynesian revue featuring Hawaiian, Tahitian, and Maori dances and a rousing Tahitian drum group that will bring you to your feet. The cost is $52 for adults, $30 for teens, and $20 for children 3 to 11.
On the south coast, check out Drums of Paradise, in the Hyatt Regency Kauai Resort & Spa, 1571 Poipu Rd., Poipu (tel. 800/55-HYATT or 808/742-1234; www.kauai-hyatt.com), every Sunday and Thursday on the lower garden lawn. Not only do they have an elaborate buffet, but a very professional Polynesian show. The cost is $65 for adults, $50 for teens 13 to 19, and $33 for children 6 to 12.
