These are the areas visitors are most likely to frequent. When Bostonians say "downtown," they usually mean the first six neighborhoods defined here; there's no "midtown" or "uptown." The numerous neighborhoods outside central Boston include the Fenway, South Boston, Dorchester, Roxbury, West Roxbury, and Jamaica Plain. With a couple of exceptions (noted here), Boston is generally safe, but you should still take the precautions you would in any large city, especially at night.
The Waterfront-- This narrow area runs along the Inner Harbor, on Atlantic Avenue and Commercial Street from the North Washington Street bridge (the route to Charlestown) to South Station. Once filled with wharves and warehouses, today it abounds with luxury condos, marinas, restaurants, offices, and hotels. Also here are the New England Aquarium and embarkation points for harbor cruises and whale-watching expeditions.
The North End-- Crossing under (or over, if the Big Dig has progressed enough) I-93 as you head east toward the Inner Harbor brings you to one of the city's oldest neighborhoods. Home to waves of immigrants in the course of its history, it was predominantly Italian for most of the 20th century. It's now less than half Italian American; many newcomers are young professionals who walk to work in the Financial District. Nevertheless, you'll hear Italian spoken in the streets and find a wealth of Italian restaurants, caffès, and shops. The main street is Hanover Street.
North Station-- Technically part of the North End, but just as close to Beacon Hill, this area around Causeway Street is home to the FleetCenter. You'll find plenty of nightspots and restaurants, but wandering alone at night (especially on the side streets away from the arena) is not a good idea.
Faneuil Hall Marketplace-- Employees aside, Boston residents tend to be scarce at Faneuil Hall Marketplace (also called Quincy Market, after its central building). An irresistible draw for out-of-towners and suburbanites, this cluster of restored market buildings -- bounded by the Waterfront, the North End, Government Center, and State Street -- is the city's most popular attraction. You'll find restaurants, bars, a food court, specialty shops, and Faneuil Hall itself. Haymarket, off I-93 on Blackstone Street, is home to an open-air produce market on Fridays and Saturdays.
Government Center-- Love it or hate it, Government Center introduced modern design into the staid facade of traditional Boston architecture. Flanked by Beacon Hill, Downtown Crossing, and Faneuil Hall Marketplace, it's home to state and federal offices, City Hall, and a major T stop. The redbrick wasteland of City Hall Plaza lies between Congress and Cambridge streets.
The Financial District-- Bounded loosely by Downtown Crossing, Summer Street, Atlantic Avenue, and State Street, the Financial District is the banking, insurance, and legal center of the city. Aside from some popular after-work spots, it's quiet at night.
Downtown Crossing-- The intersection that gives Downtown Crossing its name is at Washington Street where Winter Street becomes Summer Street. The Freedom Trail runs through this shopping and business district between Boston Common, Chinatown, the Financial District, and Government Center. Most of this neighborhood hops during the day and slows down in the evening. The onetime "Combat Zone" (red-light district) has been the object of a massive PR campaign pushing the Ladder District designation for the newly spruced-up side streets between Tremont and Washington streets opposite the Common.
Beacon Hill-- Narrow tree-lined streets and architectural showpieces, mostly in the Federal style, make up this residential area in the shadow of the State House. Louisburg (pronounced "Lewis-burg") Square and Mount Vernon Street, two of the loveliest and most exclusive spots in Boston, are on Beacon Hill. Bounded by Government Center, Boston Common, the Back Bay, and the river, it's also home to Massachusetts General Hospital, on the nominally less tony north side of the neighborhood. Charles Street, which divides the Common from the Public Garden, is the main street of Beacon Hill. Other important thoroughfares are Beacon Street, on the north side of the Common, and Cambridge Street.
Charlestown-- One of the oldest areas of Boston is where you'll see the Bunker Hill Monument and USS Constitution ("Old Ironsides"), as well as one of the city's best-known restaurants, Olives. Yuppification has brought some diversity to what was once an almost entirely white residential neighborhood, but pockets remain that have earned their reputation for insularity.
South Boston Waterfront/Seaport District-- Across the Fort Point Channel from the Waterfront neighborhood, this district is home to the World Trade Center, the Seaport Hotel, the Fish Pier, a federal courthouse, Museum Wharf, and a lot of construction. Scheduled to open in 2004, the Boston Convention & Exhibition Center should bring new vitality to this area. Seaport Boulevard and Northern Avenue are the main drags.
Chinatown-- The fourth-largest Chinese community in the country is a small but growing area jammed with Asian restaurants, groceries, and gift shops. Chinatown now fills the area between Downtown Crossing and the Mass. Pike extension. Chinatown's main streets are Washington Street, Kneeland Street, and Beach Street. The tiny Theater District extends about 1 1/2 blocks from the intersection of Tremont and Stuart streets in each direction; be careful there at night after the crowds thin out. (The "Combat Zone," or red-light district between Chinatown and Downtown Crossing, has nearly disappeared under pressure from the business community, which has mounted a campaign to rename the area the "Ladder District," but the name hasn't really caught on.)
The South End-- Cross Stuart Street or Huntington Avenue heading south from the Back Bay, and you'll find yourself in a landmark district packed with Victorian row houses and little parks. Known for its ethnic, economic, and cultural diversity, the South End has a large gay community and some of the city's best restaurants. With the gentrification of the 1980s, Tremont Street (particularly the end closest to downtown) gained a cachet that it hadn't known for almost a century. Note: Don't confuse the South End with South Boston, a residential neighborhood on the other side of I-93.
The Back Bay-- Fashionable since its creation out of landfill more than a century ago, the Back Bay overflows with gorgeous architecture and chic shops. It lies between the Public Garden, the river, Kenmore Square, and either Huntington Avenue or St. Botolph Street, depending on who's describing it. Students dominate the area near Mass. Ave. but grow scarce as property values rise near the Public Garden. This is one of the best neighborhoods in Boston for aimless walking. Major thoroughfares include Boylston Street, which starts at Boston Common and runs into the Fenway; largely residential Beacon Street and "Comm. Ave." (Commonwealth Avenue); and boutique central, Newbury Street.
Huntington Avenue-- The honorary "Avenue of the Arts" (or, with a Boston accent, "Otts"), though not a formal neighborhood, is where you'll find the Christian Science Center, Symphony Hall (at the corner of Mass. Ave.), Northeastern University, and the Museum of Fine Arts. It begins at Copley Square and touches on the Back Bay, the Fenway, and the Longwood Medical Area before heading into the suburbs. Parts of Huntington can be a little risky, so if you're leaving the museum at night, stick to the car, a cab, or the Green Line, and travel in a group.
Kenmore Square-- The white-and-red CITGO sign that dominates the skyline above the intersection of "Comm. Ave." (Commonwealth Avenue), Beacon Street, and Brookline Avenue tells you that you're approaching Kenmore Square. Its shops, bars, restaurants, and clubs attract students from adjacent Boston University. The college-town atmosphere goes out the window when the Red Sox are in town, and baseball fans pour into the area on the way to historic Fenway Park, 3 blocks away.
Cambridge-- Boston's neighbor across the Charles River is a separate city. The areas you're likely to visit are along the MBTA Red Line. Harvard Square is a magnet for students, sightseers, and well-heeled shoppers. It's an easy walk along Mass. Ave. southeast to Central Square, a rapidly gentrifying area dotted with ethnic restaurants and clubs. North along Mass. Ave. is Porter Square, a mostly residential neighborhood with some quirky shops like those that once characterized Harvard Square. Around Kendall Square you'll find MIT and many technology-oriented businesses.
