Antiques & Collectibles

Antiques hounds will dazzle at the bounty that New York has to offer, from Louis XIV settees to vintage DeFranco Family lunchboxes. Be prepared, however -- you will pay top dollar for everything.

Traditionalists will love the blocks off Broadway near 10th and 11th streets, where the bounty includes Kentshire Galleries ; and East 59th, 60th, and 61st streets around Second Avenue, not far from the Manhattan Art & Antiques Center, where about two dozen high-end dealers line the street and spill over onto surrounding blocks. Fans of mid-century furniture and Americana with a twist should browse Lafayette Street in SoHo/NoHo. Just about any dealer you visit will have the current issue of the free Greyrock Antiques Guide and/or Antiques New York, which will lead you to specialty dealers around the city.

Most call it the 26th Street flea market; the famous Annex Antiques Fair and Flea Market (tel. 212/243-5343; www.annexantiques.citysearch.com) is an outdoor emporium of nostalgia, filling a few parking lots along Sixth Avenue between 24th and 27th streets on weekends year-round. The assemblage is hit or miss -- some days you'll find treasures galore, and others it seems like there's nothing but junk. A few quality vendors are almost always on hand, though, making it well worth the $1 admission fee. The truly dedicated arrive at 6:30am, but the browsing is still plenty good as late as 4pm. Sunday is always best, since there's double the booty on hand. The website will also link you to other flea markets around the city.

Books

The best bookstore in New York City before the arrival of the Barnes & Noble superstores was Coliseum Books. And it was the arrival of those superstores that drove independent Coliseum, formerly located at 57th Street and Broadway, to close its doors in 2002. This story, however, has a happy ending; at press time, Coliseum Books was scheduled to be reborn at a new location, 11 W. 42nd St., across from the New York Public Library in late 2003.

At 86 years old, the Drama Book Shop (tel. 212/944-0595; www.dramabookshop.com) at 250 W. 40th St. (btwn Seventh and Eighth Avenues.) is hardly a newcomer. But since its move from cramped, second-floor digs in Times Square at the end of 2001, the performing arts bookstore has reinvented itself in a large new space, complete with an in-house performance space and a resident theater company. The theater also hosts discussions and book signings with members of the theater community, ranging from playwright Tina Howe to critic Mel Gussow. Offering thousands of plays, from translations of Greek classics to this season's biggest hits, the shop also offers books, magazines, and newspapers on the craft and business of the performing arts. The shop is open from 10am to 8pm, Monday through Saturday, Sunday noon to 6pm.

When they aren't waiting tables or scouring Back Stage magazine for work, you'll find many actors and other show-biz wannabes perusing the stacks at Applause Theatre and Cinema Books (211 W. 71st.; tel. 212/496-7511). With its vast collection of printed plays, screenplays, reference books, and other related books, both new and used, the store has, for years, been a major source for those in the dramatic arts. Open 10am to 9pm Monday through Saturday, Sunday noon to 6pm.

Clothing

The Top Designers--The legendary locale for the classic designer names has always been Fifth Avenue and 57th Street. There's been some exodus to Madison Avenue, but the opening of the Gianni Versace shop at 647 Fifth Ave., between 51st and 52nd streets (tel. 212/317-0224; www.versace.com), just before the designer's death heralded a new era of respect for the avenue. Other deluxe designer tenants from Italy's haute couture world are Prada; Salvatore Ferragamo, no. 661, between 52nd and 53rd streets (tel. 212/759-3822; www.ferragamo.com); and knit queen Laura Biagiotti at 4 W. 57th, just off Fifth Avenue (tel. 212/399-2533). Tom Ford's stellar Gucci is at Fifth Avenue and 54th Street (tel. 212/826-2600; www.gucci.com), while classic Chanel is at 15 E. 57th St., between Fifth and Madison avenues (tel. 212/355-5050), with the freshly hip tartans of Burberry just down the block at 9 W. 57th St. (tel. 212/371-5010; www.burberry.com).

The Upper East Side's Madison Avenue is the heartland of haute couture these days. The biggest names in clean-lined modern design line up along the platinum-coated boulevard; between 59th and 80th streets, you'll find Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani, Valentino, Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabanna, Emmanuel Ungaro, Givenchy, Hermès, Issey Miyake, Krizia, Max Mara, Prada, Polo/Ralph Lauren, Versace, and many more; the density is greatest in the high 60s.

Established avant-garde designers hang out in SoHo. Highlights include Anna Sui, 113 Greene St., just south of Prince Street (tel. 212/941-8406; www.annasui.com), who specializes in slinky fashions with a glam edge; she also has a terrific beauty line now. Marc Jacobs, 163 Mercer St., between Houston and Prince (tel. 212/343-1490; www.marcjacobs.com), excels at modern takes on classic cuts. Trend-busting designs are the specialty of legendary Brit Vivienne Westwood, 71 Greene St., between Spring and Broome (tel. 212/334-5200). Girlish designs are the specialty of Cynthia Rowley, 112 Wooster St., between Prince and Spring (tel. 212/334-1144), while Vivienne Tam, 99 Greene St., between Prince and Spring (tel. 212/966-2398), specializes in pretty and playful Asian motifs. SoHo has become so designer hot that plenty of established names have moved in as well, including Louis Vuitton, 116 Greene St., between Prince and Spring (tel. 212/274-9090; www.vuitton.com); always-avant Helmut Lang, 80 Greene St., near Spring Street (tel. 212/925-7214); Burberry, 131 Spring St., between Greene and Wooster streets (tel. 212/925-9300; www.burberry.com), and, in the same block, Chanel, 139 Spring St. (tel. 212/334-0055).

Talented up-and-comers have set up shop on and around Bond Street in NoHo; on Elizabeth, Mott, and Mulberry streets in Nolita; along East 9th Street in the East Village; and on the Lower East Side, in the blocks south of Houston Street.

Fashion Flagships--Some New York flagship stores of the major brands are an experience you won't catch in your nearest mall. These stores are display cases for the complete line of fashions, so you'll often find much more to choose from than in your at-home branch. You'll find other locations throughout the city, but these are meant to be the biggest and best: Check out the gorgeous Ann Taylor at 645 Madison Ave., at 60th Street (tel. 212/832-2010; www.anntaylor.com); the Banana Republic flagship at Rockefeller Center, 626 Fifth Ave., at 50th Street (tel. 212/974-2350; www.bananarepublic.com); Eddie Bauer, 1960 Broadway, at 67th Street (tel. 212/877-7629; www.eddiebauer.com), which also carries the AKA Eddie Bauer line and the sports and mountaineering line; Liz Claiborne, 650 Fifth Ave., at 52nd Street (tel. 212/333-3888; www.lizclaiborne.com), which carries all of Liz's lines; and DKNY, 655 Madison Ave., at 60th Street (tel. 212/223-DKNY; www.dkny.com). J. Crew has a big bi-level SoHo store at 100 Prince St., between Mercer and Greene streets (tel. 212/966-2739; www.jcrew.com), as well as a large store on Rockefeller Plaza at 50th Street (tel. 212/765-4227). Old Navy has a huge flagship featuring its affordable basics and signature sense of humor at 610 Sixth Ave., at 18th Street (tel. 212/645-0663; www.oldnavy.com).

Just Kids--If you need the basics, you'll find branches of Gap Kids and Baby Gap, and Children's Place all over town -- it's harder to avoid one than to find one. The department stores are also great sources, of course.

Bagels

No one should visit New York without tasting a real New York bagel. H&H, below, is my (and most New Yorkers') favorite, but for excellent bagels and sit-down service, head to Ess-A-Bagel instead.

Gifts

If you're looking for a special gift for a creative spirit, check out the shops that line East 9th Street in the East Village; the side streets of SoHo, where a good number of unusual boutiques still survive; Nolita; and Greenwich Village, especially in the wonderful cadre of one-of-a-kind shops in the West Village.

For first-rate Fifth Avenue gifts, don't forget Tiffany & Co., whose upper level boasts wonderful small gifts, all crafted in signature Tiffany silver or crystal and wrapped in the unmistakable blue box.

Home Design & Housewares

Attention, Oriental rug and kilim fans: Dealers line Broadway around the queen of home furnishings department stores, ABC Carpet & Home. The second floor of Zabar's is another excellent source for high-end kitchenware.

Jewelry & Accessories

Every big-name international jewelry merchant has a shop on Fifth Avenue in the 50s: glam Italian jeweler Bulgari, 730 Fifth Ave., at 57th Street (tel. 212/315-9000; www.bulgari.com); royal jeweler Asprey & Garrard, no. 725, at 56th Street (tel. 212/688-1811); ultraglamorous Harry Winston, no. 718, also at 56th Street (tel. 212/245-2000; www.harrywinston.com); Cartier, housed in a stunningly restored mansion at 653 Fifth Avenue, at 52nd Street (tel. 212/753-0111; www.cartier.com); and, best of all, Van Cleef & Arpels, 744 Fifth Ave., at 57th Street (tel. 212/644-9500), which also has a boutique at Bergdorf's.

Some of the smaller boutique names are on Madison Avenue in the '60s; Fred Leighton, 773 Madison Ave., at 66th Street (tel. 212/288-1872), specializes in magnificent estate jewelry.

The Diamond District--West 47th Street between Fifth and Sixth avenues is the city's famous Diamond District. Apparently more than 90% of the diamonds sold in the United States come through this neighborhood first, so there are some great deals to be had if you're in the market for a nice rock or another piece of fine jewelry. The street is lined shoulder-to-shoulder with showrooms; and you'll be wheeling and dealing with the largely Hasidic dealers, who offer quite a juxtaposition to the crowds. For a complete introduction to the district, including smart buying tips, point your Web browser to www.47th-street.com. If you're in the market for wedding rings, there's only one place to go: Herman Rotenberg's 1,873 Unusual Wedding Rings, 4 W. 47th St., booth 86 (tel. 800/877-3874 or 212/944-1713; www.unusualweddingrings.com). For semiprecious stones, head a block over to the New York Jewelry Mart, 26 W. 46th St. (tel. 212/575-9701). Virtually all of these dealers are open Monday through Friday only.

Museum Stores

In addition to those standouts that are listed, other noteworthy museum shops worth seeking out include the New York Public Library, the Museum for African Art, the Jewish Museum, and the American Folk Art Museum.

Music

Music buffs will find a wealth of new-and-used shops lining Bleecker and Carmine streets in the West Village. Standouts include Rockit Scientist, just off Bleecker at 43 Carmine St. (tel. 212/242-0066), a tiny place with a huge folk and psych collection. Unfortunately, Bleecker Bob's Golden Oldies, 118 W. 3rd St. (tel. 212/475-9677), has outlived its legend; it's now a dirty little hole-in-the-wall with lots of worn, badly organized vinyl.

Grungy St. Marks Place between Third and Second avenues in the East Village is another great bet. Mondo Kim's (tel. 212/598-9985; www.kimsvideo.com) is a standout for indie music, video, and 'zines.

Shoes

Designer shoe shops start on East 57th Street and amble up Madison Avenue, becoming pricier as you move uptown. SoHo is an excellent place to search for the latest styles; the streets are overrun with terrific shoe stores. Cheaper copies of the trendiest styles are sold along 8th Street between Broadway and Sixth Avenue in the Village, which some people call Shoe Row.

In addition to the choices listed, you might also consider Jutta Neumann and kate spade.