Once the domain of countless first-rate pizzerias, Manhattan's pizza offerings have noticeably dropped in quality. The proliferation of Dominoes, Pizza Huts, and other fast-food chains into the market have lowered pizza standards. Still there is plenty of good pizza to be found. Don't be tempted by sad imitations; when it comes to pizza, search out the real deal. Here are some of the best.
Grimaldi's, 19 Old Fulton St., between Front and Water sts (tel. 718/858-4300). If you need incentive to walk across the Brooklyn Bridge, Grimaldi's, in Brooklyn Heights, easily provides it. In fact, the pizza is so good, made in a coal-oven with a rich flavorful sauce and homemade mozzarella, you might run across the bridge to get to it. Be warned, it can get very crowded at dinnertime.
John's, 278 Bleecker St., near Seventh Ave. So. (tel. 212/243-1680). Since it has expanded from this original location -- there are now four outlets in the city -- the once-gleaming luster of John's has faded slightly, but the pizza is still a cut above all the rest. Thin-crusted, and out of a coal oven with the proper ratio of tomato sauce to cheese, John's has a very loyal following. Though the quality at all of the four locations is very good, the original Bleecker Street location is the most old-world romantic and my favorite. Also at 260 W. 44th St., between Broadway and Eighth Avenue (tel. 212/391-1560); and 408 E. 64th St., between York and First avenues (tel. 212/935-2895).
Lombardi's, 32 Spring St., between Mulberry and Mott streets (tel. 212/941-7994). Claiming to be New York's first "licensed" pizzeria, Lombardi's opened in 1905 and still uses a generations-old Neapolitan family pizza recipe. The coal-oven kicks out perfectly cooked pies, some topped with ingredients such as pancetta, homemade sausage, and even fresh-shucked clams. It's hard to go wrong here no matter what tops the pizza. A garden in the back makes it even more inviting during warm weather.
Patsy's Pizzeria, 2287 First Ave., between 117th and 118th sts. (tel. 212/534-9783). My favorite, and also the favorite of Frank Sinatra, who liked it so much he had pies packed and flown out to Las Vegas. The coal oven here has been burning since 1932 and though the neighborhood in East Harlem where it is located has had its ups and downs, the quality of pizza at Patsy's has never wavered. Try the marinara pizza; a pie with fresh marinara sauce but no cheese that's so good you won't miss the mozzarella. Unlike the other pizzerias mentioned here, you can order by the slice at Patsy's. Don't be fooled by imitators using Patsy's name; this is the original and the best.
