The Pioneer Square Area

Start: Pioneer Place at the corner of Yesler Way and First Avenue.

Finish: Elliott Bay Book Company.

Time: Approximately 5 hours, including shopping, dining, and museum stops.

Best Times: Weekdays, when the neighborhood and the Seattle Underground Tour are not so crowded.

Worst Times: Weekends, when the area is very crowded, and Mondays, when galleries are closed.

In the late 19th century, Pioneer Square was the heart of downtown Seattle, so when a fire raged through these blocks in 1889, the city was devastated. Residents and merchants quickly began rebuilding and set about to remedy many of the infrastructure problems that had faced Seattle in the years before the fire. Today this small section of the city is all that remains of old Seattle. Because one architect, Elmer Fisher, was responsible for the design of many of the buildings constructed after the fire, the neighborhood has a distinctly uniform architectural style.

While wandering these streets, don't bother looking for a specific site called Pioneer Square; you won't find it. The name actually applies to the whole neighborhood, not a plaza surrounded by four streets, as you would surmise. Do keep your eye out for interesting manhole covers, many of which were cast with maps of Seattle or Northwest Coast Indian designs. Also be aware that this neighborhood, the original Skid Row, still has several missions and homeless shelters -- consequently, expect to see a lot of street people in the area.

To get the most out of downtown Seattle's only historic neighborhood, we have outlined a walking tour that takes in shops, art galleries, and historic buildings. Bear in mind that this area was hard hit by the 6.8 earthquake that rocked Seattle on February 28, 2001. At press time, some historic buildings remained unrepaired.

Start your tour of this historic neighborhood at the corner of Yesler Way and First Avenue on:

1. Pioneer Place

The triangular park at the heart of Pioneer Square is the site of a totem pole that's a replacement for one that caught fire in 1938. The original pole had, in 1890, been stolen from a Tlingit village far to the north of Seattle. According to local legend, after the pole burned, the city fathers sent a check for $5,000 requesting a new totem pole. The Tlingit response was, "Thanks for paying for the first one. Send another $5,000 for a replacement." The truth is far more prosaic: A local wood carver was paid to create a new totem pole. Also on this plaza is a 1905 cast-iron pergola that was reconstructed after a truck crashed into it in early 2001.

Facing the square are several historic buildings, including the gabled Lowman Building and three buildings noteworthy for their terra-cotta facades. In one of these buildings, at 608 First Ave., you'll find the ticket counter for Seattle's:

2. Underground Tour

This tour takes a look at the Pioneer Square area from beneath the sidewalks. The tour (tel. 206/682-4646 for information) is a great introduction to the history of the area (if you don't mind off-color jokes) and actually spends quite a bit of time above ground (duplicating much of the walking tour outlined here).

In the basement of the Pioneer Building, 602 First Ave., one of the architectural standouts on Pioneer Place, you'll find the:

3. Pioneer Square Antique Mall

This complex (tel. 206/624-1164) is home to dozens of antiques and collectibles dealers.

Running along the south side of Pioneer Place is:

4. Yesler Way

This was the original Skid Row. In Seattle's early years, logs were skidded down this road to a lumber mill on the waterfront, and the road came to be known as Skid Road. These days Yesler Way is trying hard to live down its reputation, but, because of the number of missions in this neighborhood, there are still a lot of street people in the area (and they'll most certainly be asking you for change as you wander the streets).

Take a Break

Merchants Cafe, 109 Yesler Way (tel. 206/624-1515), is the oldest restaurant in Seattle and a good place for an inexpensive lunch or dinner. If you skipped the Underground Tour, then cross Yesler Way to the corner of Yesler and First Avenue, to the Starbucks, where you can pick up a latte to help fuel you through this walking tour. Right next door to Starbucks, you'll find Cow Chips, 102A First Ave. S (tel. 206/292-9808), where you can get one of the best (though messiest) chocolate chip cookies you'll ever eat.

With cookie and coffee in hand, glance up Yesler Way, past a triangular parking deck (a monstrosity that prompted the movement to preserve the rest of this neighborhood), to:

5. Smith Tower

This structure, at 506 Second Ave. (tel. 206/622-4004), was the tallest building west of the Mississippi when it was completed in 1914. The observation floor near the top of this early skyscraper is open to the public and provides a very different perspective on Seattle than the Space Needle does. The ornate lobby and elevator doors are also worth checking out.

Now, walk back down to First Avenue and turn left, away from Pioneer Place. At the next corner, Washington Street, look across First Avenue and admire the:

6. Maynard Building

This ornate building, which is named for Seattle founding father David "Doc" Maynard, was the site of Seattle's first bank.

If your fingers aren't too messy from eating your Cow Chip cookie, you might want to stop by:

7. Flora & Fauna Books

Located below street level in the Maynard Building, this specialty bookstore, at 121 First Ave. S (tel. 206/623-4727), is filled with plant and animal field guides, gardening books, and the like.

Heading up Washington Street away from the water for half a block will bring you to:

8. Laguna Vintage Pottery

This shop, at 116 S. Washington St. (tel. 206/682-6162), specializes in mid-20th-century pottery, primarily from California. Fiesta, Bauer, and Weller are all well represented.

From here, head back to First Avenue and turn left. On this block, at 210 First Ave. S, you'll find:

9. Fireworks Fine Crafts Gallery

This gallery (tel. 206/682-8707) sells colorful and unusual crafts by Northwest artisans.

Next, at 214 First Ave. S, you'll come to the:

10. Grand Central Arcade

Inside this small, European-style shopping arcade, with its brick walls and wine cellar-like basement, you'll find several interesting shops and studios.

Take a Break

In the arcade you'll also find the Grand Central Baking Company (tel. 206/622-3644), plus some tables and even a fireplace, which together make this a great place to stop for lunch if you didn't already eat. Alternatively, you can grab some food to go and head over to Waterfall Park .

Leaving Grand Central Arcade through the door opposite where you came in will bring you out into:

11. Occidental Park

On this shady, cobblestone plaza stand four totem poles carved by Northwest artist Duane Pasco. The tallest is the 35-foot-high The Sun and Raven, which tells the story of how Raven brought light into the world. Next to this pole is Man Riding a Whale. This type of totem pole was traditionally carved to help villagers during their whale hunts. The other two figures that face each other are symbols of the Bear Clan and the Welcoming Figure.

This shady park serves as a gathering spot for homeless people, so you may not want to linger. However, before leaving the park, be sure to notice the grouping of bronze statues, the:

12. Seattle Fallen Firefighters' Memorial

This memorial was inspired by the deaths of four firefighters who died in a 1995 warehouse fire in Chinatown.

The statues are adjacent to South Main Street, and if you walk up this street to the corner of Second Avenue, you will come to:

13. Waterfall Park

The roaring waterfall here looks transported straight from the Cascade Range. The park is built on the site of the original United Parcel Service (UPS) offices and makes a wonderful place for a rest or a picnic lunch.

Now, walk back the way you came and, across from Occidental Park at 117 S. Main St., you'll find the:

14. Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park

Not really a "park," this small museum (tel. 206/553-7220) is dedicated to the history of the 1897-98 Klondike gold rush, which helped Seattle grow from an obscure town into a booming metropolis.

Around the corner from this small museum is Occidental Mall, where you'll find a couple of art galleries, including:

15. Davidson Galleries

You never know what to expect when you walk through the front door here at 313 Occidental Ave. S (tel. 206/624-7684). The gallery sells everything from 16th-century prints to contemporary art by Northwest artists.

Take a Break

If it's time for another latte, cross the plaza to Torrefazione, 320 Occidental Ave. S (tel. 206/624-5847), which serves some of the best coffee in Seattle. Be sure to get yours in one of the hand-painted cups.

Diagonally across from Torrefazione, at 123 S. Jackson St., you'll find the:

16. Foster/White Gallery

This gallery (tel. 206/622-2833) is best known for its art glass. It's the Seattle gallery for famed glass artist Dale Chihuly, and always has several of his works on display.

Right next door, at 119 S. Jackson St., you'll find the:

17. Stonington Gallery

This gallery (tel. 206/405-4040) is one of Seattle's top showcases for contemporary Native American arts and crafts. Here you'll find a good selection of Northwest Coast Indian masks, woodcarvings, prints, and jewelry.

Continue to the corner of First Avenue, where you'll find:

18. Northwest Fine Woodworking

This large store at 101 S. Jackson St. (tel. 206/625-0542) sells exquisite, handcrafted wooden furniture, as well as some smaller pieces. It's well worth a visit.

From here, cross South Jackson Street, where you'll find:

19. Flury and Co.

This gallery, at 322 First Ave. S (tel. 206/587-0260), specializes in prints by Seattle photographer Edward S. Curtis, who is known for his portraits of Native Americans. There's also an excellent selection of antique Native American artifacts.

From here, head up First Avenue to the corner of Main Street, where you'll find the:

20. Elliott Bay Book Company

One of the city's most popular bookstores, the Elliott Bay Book Company stands at 101 S. Main St. (tel. 206/624-6600). It boasts an extensive selection of books on Seattle and the Northwest. With so much great browsing to be done here, this bookstore makes a great place to end your walking tour of the Pioneer Square area.