Tango Clubs--In Buenos Aires, you can watch the tango or dance the tango. You'll have many opportunities to see the dance during your visit: Tango and milonga dancers frequent the streets of La Boca and San Telmo, some hotels offer tango shows in their lobbies and bars, and tango salons blanket the city. The most famous (besides Café Tortoni) are in San Telmo and combine dinner and show. Have a radio-taxi or remise take you to San Telmo, La Boca, or Barracas at night, rather than taking the metro or walking.

Other Dance Clubs--Dancing in Buenos Aires is not just about tango; the majority of the younger population prefers salsa and European beats. Of course, nothing in life changes quite so fast as the "in" discos, so ask around for the latest hot spots. The biggest nights out are Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. Here are some of the hottest clubs as this book went to press: Opera Bay, Cecilia Grierson 225 in Puerto Madero, boasts the top spot among the city's clubs, attracting an affluent and fashionable crowd. Built along the waterfront and resembling the Sydney opera house, Opera Bay features an international restaurant, tango show, and disco. The city's best salsa dancers head to Salsón, Av. Alvarez Thomas 1166 (tel. 11/4637-6970), which offers lessons on Wednesday and Friday at 9pm. In Palermo, Buenos Aires News, Av. del Libertador 3883 (tel. 11/4778-1500), is a rocking late-night club with Latin and European mixes. Tequila, Costanera Norte and La Pampa (tel. 11/4788-0438), is packed every night. There are a number of popular discos nearby, as well. The most popular gay and lesbian club is Amerika, Gascón 1040 (tel. 11/4865-4416), which has three floors of dance music and all-you-can-drink specials on Friday and Saturday.